Tyre rub and 'bottoming out'

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Vanman, May 29, 2017.

  1. When going over bumps I keep getting a loud bump as I assume the front tyres are making contact with the top of the wheel arch, especially with the weight of the whole family. It's pretty scary on some bumps. Also, when turning full lock it seems to rub especially with full load.

    I've attached pics just after everyone got out and it's quite low. If I physically lift the bus it stays up again. It doesn't bounce around when rocking so not sure if it's the shocks.

    Would be grateful if anyone can point me in the right direction.
    20170521_171824.jpg 20170521_171809.jpg
     
    GreenMachine likes this.
  2. Your bus looks to be lowered at the front but i could be wrong. There are bump stops normally on the front beam which would stop the tyres hitting the arch. If the bus is lowered these are often removed. Sometimes thay are cut off as they are rusted through.

    It could be that you need replacement front shocks!
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2017
    dubcool.pc likes this.
  3. Just ordered my shocks from gaz ... full front and back set up.. as I did have this problem with mine... hopefully will soon be sorted ... really helpful when I ordered them ... all made to measure ;-)

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
     
  4. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    We had the same issue when we had drop spindles fitted to the westy (Gasburners on 195/65 x 15 tyres). Running the Gaz a just dampers up front reduced the issue slightly but didn't solve it.

    Shorter than throwing lots of pennies trying to solve the issue, we went back to stockheight :(
     
  5. Bhubesi

    Bhubesi Supporter

    Those wheels are protruding outside the wheel arch, no wonder the rub!!
    Tony
     
  6. think they are same wheels as mine. they do sit inside the arch!
     
  7. From the pic it looks like dropped spindles increasing track and possibly the wheel offset causing issues too all resulting in the tyres sitting too far out.

    Are you running dropped spindles or adjustable beam or both? Do you know the offset of the alloys? Whilst the tyres look new and fresh I can see a wear line on the sidewall/to tread section indicating rubbing from the arch.
     
  8. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Banging is probably stock shocks bottoming HARD. If that continues they can snap the shock absorber towers on the front beam.

    Beetle rear shocks suit better as they are shorter but when lowered and rubbing on the top of the arches, the only way out is a raise or coilover shocks that increase the spring rate.
    As your setup looks like its rubbing on the lip of the arches then it needs more urgent work done as you are losing a lot of travel, apart from safety issues involving slicing through tyres.
     
    Crispy, Spacecowboyuk and Bhubesi like this.
  9. There is a problem with the front wheels they are to far outside the arch. Can you get a pic of it from the front to see how far the wheel is hanging out . That does not look safe if it's rubbing on the tyre you could cut it in half
     
    itsawesty likes this.
  10. Thanks for all the fast replies, sorry for being so slow with mine!

    The wheels are just about within the arches, at least within the lip. Another picture below and from above. The original pictures did look like they were protruding I agree.

    20170604_114107.jpg 20170604_114128.jpg

    As far as I can see the van has not been lowered and has the standard original beam. When I bought I thought it was the larger 15" wheels making it look lowered. I also wondered if the tyre profiles were too big (185/65/15).

    After it's dropped I can lift it back up again. Here is what is looks up back up again. If it stayed like that I wouldn't be worried.

    20170604_114318.jpg

    I am sure I read somewhere about the torsion springs in the beam weakening causing the suspension to drop so wonder if that's the problem. I think they're expensive so don't want to get it wrong. What sort of job is it to replace them?

    I may try new shocks first as the existing do look fairly old. Anyone have experience of these? https://www.vwheritage.com/ac413kg4521-shock-kyb-gas-a-just-double-loop-410-265mm-each
     
  11. I have no experience of those, although I know others here have - I didn't go for them as I heard that they were a bit hard.

    When I had bottoming out issues, it turned out that my shocks were completely ineffective and therefore not doing any damping at all. (they were cheap Brazilian ones that had basically had it.) To get decent roadholding with some comfort, I went for Koni Classic "red" shocks - they're oil shocks but fully adjustable and are also rebuildable when you eventually wear them out. They're a bit more pricey, but based on my use of them, worth it. I have Koni reds front and back.
     
    Vanman likes this.
  12. matty

    matty Supporter

    The reason is you are to low for the suspension
    Options are
    Raise it up a bit
    Stiffen up the suspension so you don't use the full suspension travel
    Fit smaller tyres or wheels
    Tub the body to give more room
     
    Vanman and Pedro del monkeybike like this.
  13. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    I had the same problems
    Firstly DONT go stiff shocks especially coil overs the ride is Marmite, go for lower profile tyres, once I changed my tyres and got rid of the coil overs the ride improved by 75/80% it's never going to be as good as stock
     
    Vanman likes this.
  14. With the van jacked up today I saw what the problem was, it has been dropped a couple of inches and someone has obviously sawn off the bump stops so feel a bit foolish not spotting that in the first place.

    I think next thing is change the shocks to something as suggested above, though I was surprised coil overs are no good especially as I'm now thinking that without bump stops the coil over might prevent contact with the wheels.

    Also, a VW man has suggested it might be the distribution of weight of having a heavy front wheel mounted on the front. Does anyone have any recommendations for mounting spare wheel on the back tailgate?

    Then ifnthat doesnt work i think lower profile tyres...
     
  15. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    Loads have the front wheel on the front without your issues. I wouldn't worry about that.
     
  16. matty

    matty Supporter

    The bump stops would of been cut off as you are so low you would not have any suspension travel as it would keep hitting the stops
     
    dubcool.pc likes this.
  17. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    I have driven 30000 miles on coilovers courtesy of having a twist n cut lowering that is a bit hard to undo ...
    The ride is harder but more like a "modern" car.
    It can go over speed bumps at 20mph without rubbing or banging. It was safe to drive today in heavy crosswinds at 70mph on the way to Bristol along the M4.
     
  18. That is good to know, i may do the same. Which coilovers do you have or recommend?
     
  19. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    They are Gaz. I was recommended them by Scott Oliver.

    They have adjustable spring loading (lock nuts under bottom of spring and a threaded body) and damping rate (dial at bottom)


    Same as fitted (doubled up) to the rear of his race car....
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2017
    Vanman likes this.

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