So these new fangled electric ones would it be Facet I'm after. Our mech one doesn't seem to want to pump ... obviously everything else is joining in the "giving up the ghost" now we've booked the MOT.. that might have to move now! Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
We used this one, made a mounting plate for the left hand battery tray & jobs a good one https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC1273193/rotary-fuel-pump-3-5psi-30galhr-12v/ ** its gone up in price since we bought it
Mechanical ones are salvageable..... http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/rebuild-a-type-4-mechanical-fuel-pump.61829/
Might be a winter job... need to get on the road .. seemed to work fine on the bench though. ...... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
...wiring em in... live from coil bad aparently ... solenoid activated by blue regulator wire?.. and a a switched bypass to prime if required... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
We have the circuit diagram as per the image posted on PSG's thread on 34 ICT's over the weekend. We have not got the prime button in ours though, a couple of pumps on the throttle and it gumbles into life okay.
...and just to check ... in out on here...answers please Not saying where I had them to protect the stupid... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Or a fuel injection pump relay so you don’t need a bypass to prime the carbs – like this: http://www.ratwell.com/mirror/www.dolphinsci.com/relay.html
When I did my son's T25 2l cu engine fuel pump replacement, looked at a refurb kit for the old mechanical pump, expensive kit and full of repro bits, we decided electric was the best way forward. Removed the old knackered and leaking pump and rod and fitted a blanking plate with gasket. We decided on a facet 1.5 to 4 psi pump and at first we wired it simply to run off the coil and then run it for a while to make sure all was well. Then we got it wired up properly with relay etc. as mentioned on here and other threads for safety reasons. Fitted a new fuel filter between tank and pump and new carb needle valves. Its been running well for about 3 years now. The facet pumps do make a vibrating noise but we mounted ours on a rubber pad between pump and chassis rail.
Phew.. just ordered the 1.5 to 4 psi facet one in plastic so it can live "outside" worried after finding a 5psi min for dual carbs note elsewhere... Not sure I've got my inlet/outlet right on the mech one now.. nothing on tinterweb for type 4 ones!.. but it's on the right way for how it squirted out on the workbench! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
It's a Type1 rebuild kit for a standard Pierburg pump which I modified to fit a Type 4 pump. The kit I got from Rage when I was at Volsworld in Sandown. http://www.rage-keveronderdelen.nl/carburateurs.htm It's not all perfect, but it'll fix the main diaphragm if that's your problem.
I'm confused.... So is your mech pump working now then or not? I have a spare one here if it'll help you?
No idea.? Not pumping when I have pipes connected the way I thought was right. .. but could have been just plumbed wrong.. Which one is in and which one is out? Lecce pump on way anyway... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Matey if I wasn't sporting a prolapsed disc I'd get under my bus and check From memory bottom one is in and top is out
Red is in - the way to remember is that the fuel goes through the filter first, and the input points in line at the filter. If you take the pump off and operate the activating lever by hand you should hear it whistle almost like a pair of old belles, and feel it suck. Measure the length of your rod too. Hee hee.
Ta.. Sorry been playing with the witchcraft that is wiring..inicators are being a problem...not flashing ! And side light causing a short... At least I had plumbing right.. might be my rod is too short then!... I'll wire the electric one in and come back to that.. Thanks again.. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
