..well still chasing the problem of shaking idle and imo being abit low on power Ive got to some conclusion..I did a quick compression test yesterday (the engine was warm but not up to its temp yet) and my readings are.. I. 105 II 116 III 108 IV 116 After I added some oil into cylinders I got I. 145 II 145 III 145 IV 145 Yes I was aware of worn cylinders as I took them off last year and was supposed to get them honed but didnt manage to get around it yet.. Anyways those top numbers aint that bad are they?..avarage but still quite decent but deffo not a cause of erratic idle imo.. Now after thinking about it this morning Im quite sure the problem might be the fuel delivery..since lets call it ‘rebuild’ I was fighting this problem with no result.. The vac gauge tells me there is an issue with the manifold vacuum when I plug it into the manifold or carbs vacuum outlets..its fluctuating like hell..it does fluctuate when I pluged it in the fuel line aswell..the fuel pressure seems ok but is very unstabile.. I must add everything else is spot on or seems ok.. Now my question is..could unstabile fuel delivery cause the problem with shaky idle?..I mean practicly?..I no the ignition timeing affects the fuel delivery but timing is spot on.. Or maybe the other way round? Although timing seems right theres a problem with the wrong cam..but if there’s would it be even running for such a long time? I run stock fuel pump btw I only change the diaphram that was leaky..but there’s no magic about a mechanical pump is there? If the fuel pump cause it then I found the problem..but if the timing then back to the first question..camshaft?.. Does anyone know the difference between FI cam and mech cam? Would it even run in CJ code engine? BTW while I drive my bay I always can feel it kinda missing/breaking up but you can only tell it with experience really..if somebody else with no experience would drive it wouldnt have it notiece prabably.. Sorry for a long post and you prabably wont read it all but I thought I’ll try anyway Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
Your problem is almost certainly carb related. Take off the idle solinoids each one at a time and note a difference. I am pretty certain it will be crud blocking the idle circuit or a cable off. Check the chokes are fully open too after wamup.
^^this As far as the fuel pressure is concerned the pump can overpressurise and overcome the float valves, but that's usually caused by the push rod being slightly too long. Has anything been changed in that department? I replaced my float valves but it made no difference. Where did you find a replacement pump membrane BTW? Have you set up the throttle stops to 0.1 mm and synchronised the air flows?
I did exactly this when I ran solex’s.. I remember ended up replacing one of them..no solution tho..it still ran as bad as before..so I thought it must be worn carbs..so got drla’s and still same shaky idling whatever I do no change..few people confirm my jetting is quite right aswell..carbs been taken off cleaned up (idling jets are known of blocking off frequently on dells) tens of times and no change.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I got a new one off ebay years ago..I no lucky me..I had to lower the pressure from about 4-5psi to 2-3..I used thicker gaskets.. Yes I did synchronised the carbs setup as the dellorto book says.. Dont no but lets say I got wrong cam lets say hydro cam would it affect the way pump is working? Also would I b able to set tappets mhm? Spent ages on internet all rthese years honestly trying to find the issue its so flustrating..on the other hand even if I strip engine and split the block quite likly I might not find anything suspicious thats really bothers me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OK, so I don't know anything about Dells or alternative cams but have you tried to set up the mixture? I've still got original Solexes but managed to get the idle mixture way out last year. I've got a rather primitive Gunson's Gastester for calibrating the CO and this suddenly made everything work right. On another occasion it was a bad plug cap. Pull the leads one at a time and see if one makes less difference than the others. Best done with a running engine but only if you are not afraid of 50,000 volts up your arm.
Yep I tried to set it up..basicaly they run pretty much good at 3-3.5 mixture screw out..that’s what the book recommends for a start also other experienced people suggest.. When I pull the leads I notieced less difference on no.1 and 3 those with slightly lower compression but there’s still noticable drop..and no Im not that scared of them volts..been there done that..few times Thanks for heads up anyway.. Btw..Im in the game for long time now and never had that problem before..back in the 90s we were building/rebuilding engines frem other scrap engines..the all ran good..all type1s tho..bloody hell its so flustrsting but Im not gonna give up Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
