Taco Plate Temp Sender

I have a nice new taco plate and sender. There's just one spade connector though. I assume the body makes a connection to ground - but via that nicely powder coated taco plate?

Also what sort of washer to fit - copper possibly? It's not going to seal without something



And just while I'm here, the Haynes manual says about fitting the crank oil seal (fan end) "Cover the seats with a thin coat of sealing compound. If necessary make a small lead in the seat, and remove all burrs"

Do I really need sealant for a metal to rubber joint? I thought it was only needed for metal to metal joints

 

Yes, you'll need to remove the paint from the threaded area on the plate. A copper washer should seal it.

 

Thanks

And I suppose also from around the bolt heads too, seeing as it's pressing against a rubber seal

 

Also, you can put sealant on whatever you like. Curil-T is good.

 

Yes, the plate will need to be earthed to the crankcase.

 

I'm just wondering if it's usual to put sealant on the crank seal. I suppose it won't hurt to have a very thin smear

 

Can't do any harm between the seal outer edge and the case.

 

Or you could make it work by putting a ring earth terminal and then a nitrile rubber ring under it to avoid intentionally scratching the powder coat, although it will probably have to come off the threaded part or it may be hard to screw in.

 

You’re not the only one to use sealant everywhere - https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/oil-leak-source.88218/

 

No need for sealant but a smear at the casing split line won’t do any harm, just a smear mind.

 

Is that powder coated or anodised? Get your meter on it to see if it’s conductive.
My money would be on anodised and no need to remove it.

 

Copper crush washers under the bolt heads usually and I’d fit an aluminium crush washer on the sender.

 

Sorry to jump onto your thread @Norris .....
I’ve got the same temperature sender on my sump plate and I use the reusable silicone sump gaskets. Could this need earthing? It’s never worked very well. The gauge does move but I don’t think it reads the correct oil temperature.

 

If that’s a Type 1 with half a dozen bolts holding the plate on it should earth through the bolts. What oil temperature are you seeing typically?

 

The taco plate came with the bolts and plain copper washers. I'll have to find a suitable washer for the sender

 

Not at all! Fire away. It will be a handy resource for anyone else fitting a sump temperature sender

 

Strictly speaking it’s not a taco plate .. it is also anodised and your only connection is at the end of the temp sender . The gauge will get its earth from the dash .. The proper taco plate (Porsche ) uses a longer sender which is angled to put it in the correct location and also has a cover to stop airflow cooling sender

 

The gauge does have an earth but the body of the sender also needs an earth as it’s a variable resister (thermistor). As already said if it’s anodised conductivity should be ok but you could always double check with a multimeter

 

Gauge is earthed at the dash but sender needs an earth through the plate too. The threads on the sender should be enough contact to the plate but I use a copper washer on it as they come with one, The plate kit also has two copper washers to fix the plate to the case too as there's a oil ring between the case and plate that way you get a path through the two smaller fixing bolts into the case.

Also make sure you match the sender to the gauge there are 170° and 150° senders Brickwerks do one that matches most of the VDO gauges used as aftermarket ones ..

https://thelatebay.com/index.php?posts/1655063

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

 

Sorry yeah 1600 tp. I brought a vdo gauge that reads up to 150 Celsius and the correct sender. If it’s 30degrees in the summer and I’m sitting at 55mph for 50miles I might see 90 Celsius.