It clunks when adjusted correctly, doesnt when screwed up tight as the PO had. Backed off 1/4 inch adjustment for zero lash. 1/4 steering wheel freeplay and all other steering components are fine. I ll re tighten for the short term but need to repair/replace. Just Kampers reconned using own case at £330. OK or made of diary products VW Heritage, new and shiny but£566 and & weeks wait. Any other players out here or advice PLEASE. I know my way round a tool box but if it starts gettin towards micrometers and the like I ll pass Thanks my learned associates. ( A bit terse as I d wiped out my previous text when about to post. Nurse!)
Got a recon fromMegabug 12000 miles ago ,am happy with what I paid for, thou anything would have improved the system on my bus ,the original was well past its exchange date.
Might be able to help you out, is it a left or right hand drive ? As I have a spot on LHD, due to a recent RHD conversion on my Bus....
OK tightened the git right down, just a thread and a half protruding out the top of the locknut. No increase in resistance anywhere in the turning circle. Still got some play, about 2/3 inches and that clunking has been eliminated. I ve searched all day to find any info on overhauling but no luck apart from Diddymens seal replacement and nowt ont tinternet of any use. Its in my eyes on its way out. My question is, my learned collegues is, what is your opinion. Any help greatly appreciated. Ta peeps
I've just refurbed my steering box best I could. I've posted pictures in another thread. There is a limit to what can be done. The main problem is that the worm shaft is supported on two angular contact ball bearings. Instead of using a conventional inner bearing race, to save space, they have machined the inner bearing race into the shaft. My guess is that due to a combination of over tighening, oils leaks, poor shimming etc these bearing surfaces are easily damaged. Because they are part of the shaft they can't easily be repaired. I did consider grinding the shaft and fitting a conventional race. However, the outer race is not a standard size so the case would also need machining. By the time I have done all that I might as well have bough a new one. It's not a great design. Ball bearings are really designed to spin around which helps shares the load and distributes the oil/grease. In this design, most of the time the bearing is rocking backwards and forwards as the steering is moved from side to side. This would concentrate the wear and lead to poor oil distribution. I recall an article some years ago where car wheel bearings were failing early. The problem was traced to the cars being transported from the factory by train. During the journey the cars rocked on their suspension which forced the grease out of the ball/race interface which led to galling and early failure. I'm not sure what is done to the refurbished boxes. The only things that are easily replaced are the oil and seals.
Cheers for the info bud, much as I was expecting given what info I ve found so far. I ll have a search for your thread. Thanks again
I suspect just the seals and a lick of paint. Maybe bearings if they can get hold of them. Find it hard to believe that anyone machines the shaft: they likely select the best from returned boxes and scrap the rest.
Ive read most of the various threads and see that these http://www.hellotrade.com/taylor-machines-services/ were thinking of making new worm and pins, what is their ad referring to where it says type 2? Split or Bay?
It does say they're for splitties. Not bad that they're making new worms, tho' Presumably, splitty owners have even more hassle than we do.
I see that Heritage list the worms, i didnt realise that http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_act_vw...icSearchText_211415205_lang_EN_country_GB.htm
