A wise choice, go for the easy life. Every wednesday afternoon is sports which equates to drinking in the cricket pavilion while someone else exerts energy.
I can't do any of that but i have a broken microphone that wishes I could. I think it's capacitors but it's a surface mount board.
I read on the internet to measure resistance across them and it should show a momentary value on a digital multimeter. Two do, one does nothing.
Use suck then wick to clean a PCB. And these days I use my 50 year old PZO binocular microscope to look at messing with circuit boards as the old eyesight is going. But at least then I can read the part numbers on the resistors.
Two are 220 microfarads/16 volt working, one is 47microfarads/50 volt working or about 1/4 of the capacity so the momentary reading will be more fleeting. If it takes less than 1/3 of a second on a standard digital multimeter, it may never register at all. They look like power supply capacitors. Unless the equipment has run hot like 90C , they are probably not the problem, especially if you get a brief reading out of the larger capacity ones. I would start with any connectors soldered to the board where a torque can be applied, and in any mains supplies look for the cracks that form round the soldering of the leads of the devices that are bolted to heatsinks - the current flow in switch mode supplies causes solder to migrate from the pins of the power transistors and diodes. Re-flowing the solder round the leads going through the PCB may be all that is needed.
I used to love the look on the loadmasters face when we jumped in the chopper, clearly we stunk like a ferret pen,
Until a couple of years back, I had a gert biggun with a two and a half inch tip. Pretty sure it was a Seivert or similar with a massive gas bottle that I’ve commandeered for other purposes as a blow lamp. I had a very very old partner in the roofing game many many moons ago and we were subbies to a big roofing company and used to do the interesting jobs that the hourly gang would spend the rest of the year finishing. So we’re doing an inverted roof in the poshest bit of Brizzal but the spec from the local old boy artichoke is to do these two long valleys in zinc. This was my first time doing a long valley in zinc and had only ever done straight cover abutments and stepped flashings in zinc, if there was any back gutters etc, my old pal would solder them with his poker type iron, but it was rare to use zinc. So we’re doing this valley and it is specked solder joints were called for double solder which means to make the lining, and tack solder it, turn it over and solder the back on the overlap then re fit and solder the finished article. Well my old pal had a pressurised blow lamp that you’d pump up and warmed up his iron then he’d solder for about twenty seconds, then heat it up again and again and again the blow lamp flame was too dirty to try and use directly as well So I had the bright idea of getting this big gas iron and it was crap, it did the job way quicker than my pals old poker style iron but just kept falling to pieces, the tip was a mahoosive piece of copper that fell off when you got it too hot and we ended up using that as a guage to tell us it was up to max temp, heat it up, tip falls off, pliers to get it back on then solder. That was the only time we ever used it as Zinc was never specked again and it hung in my garage for thirty or more years, no one wanted it and couldn’t give it away, same as that massive double six metre extension ladder, a thing from the past. So he went down the tip. Ozziedog,,,,, you just knew I’d have a biggun
Excuse me while I demonstrate my almost complete lack of electrical component knowledge... The mic needs 48V "phantom power". The board...does something. I believe there are two plates that get electrically charged or something along those lines in the actual mic part. I plug it in, switch the phantom power - it works properly for a few minutes then a loud static noise builds and the signal from the mic fades away. As it fades away I can shout at it and it comes back for a few seconds. After a couple of times that doesn't work. Either there's a problem with the phantom power (via USB then ramped up crudely so quite likely) or something else. The fading in and noise seemed kind of capacitory to me in my ignorance, but maybe if they aren't getting the power the result would be the same. The Mic is unfortunately known to have been built with duff capacitors even years after the maker was aware of the problem... but I was not. It's not an expensive one but it punches above it's weight when it works. Replacement boards are only available from people as upgrades that cost more than the mic did, along with new capsules. That tends to be what people do because the casing and shock-proof mount it comes with are quite good. Not for me though, it adds up to about £400 and it was only an £80 mic. I don't need a £400 mic.
Yes but not quite as simply as you put it. IIRc the static also fades out after a while leaving it completely dead...but..there are points where if I tap the body it sounds like a mic does when you tap or scratch it (it's plastic) but the mic still no worky. Could be a clue.
