Solder - lead or lead free

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Zed, Aug 8, 2021.

  1. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I have two lots of solder as provided in plastic tubes.
    One has a green cap and a lead free label.
    One has a red cap and no label.
    Otherwise the containers look identical.
    Can I assume the red capped one is the good stuff? I don't want to faff about with the non-lead stuff and melt my circuit board which has at least one dry joint on a switch.

    Ta. :)
     
  2. Not certain, but I do have leaded solder somewhere, happy to post some, if you get stuck?
     
  3. Sounds like it. Go for the leaded stuff (which you can still buy).
     
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  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Thanks! I know I also have a loose coil of leaded somewhere but found these first.
    I suppose one might have flux core and other might not? I'll google later, off for a walk now between rain showers.
     
    Lasty likes this.
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Magic, I was hoping you would see this.
    Yes I definitely want to use leaded, the question was more whether the red cap denoted leaded or was just random. Probably should have googled!
     
  6. Norris

    Norris Supporter

    Electrical solder will have a flux core. Dunno about lead-free solder, as I have a couple of reels of lead solder that will see me out
     
  7. Norris

    Norris Supporter

    Iirc, the red cap should be leaded
     
    Zed likes this.
  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Like petrol used to be - that was my thinking. :)
     
  9. I've assumed lead free is for plumbing purposes, to keep it out of the drinking water supply.
     
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It's to prevent user brain damage too - my unleaded is electrical stuff.
     
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  11. Meltman

    Meltman Sprout Lover

    Is lead bad for you then???
     
  12. Norris

    Norris Supporter

    I think lead is the least of my worries in that regard :D
     
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  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Next question.
    Is a 15w iron suitable?
    It has a rather large worn tip on it at the moment but I have a (bent :rolleyes: ) small one too. Thing is...I can't get it off.
    Am I supposed to slide that thingy away from the tip to loosen it?
    I wish there was someone I could hand it to, I don't have pcb soldering experience or much confidence - don't want to wreck my headphone amp.
    IMG_20210808_142127189.jpg
     
  14. Err, no, not in my humble. You need something like a Weller TCP :thumbsup:
     
  15. 15W is a bit weedy. Might work on a PCB, tho’ Give the bit a good brushing to get the crud off.
     
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  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    What wattage would be better? Maybe I can borrow one from someone on the marina.
    Is the problem that I would need to hold it in place for so long it would melt the components? Perhaps a quick dab with more watts would be less time for heat transfer? I'm guessing. :oops:
     
  17. Norris

    Norris Supporter

    A bit of damp sponge is useful for wiping your tip on to clean it. Then tin the tip with a bit of fresh solder before applying to the joint. You need to get the solder to flow, but not cook it. A smaller tip would be more suitable to circuit boards and connector wiring
     
  18. 50W temp controlled like a Weller is best. Heat a PCB pad too long and it’ll lift off the board.
     
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  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I think I will procrastinate for a little longer, chat to my neighbours and see if one says " :rolleyes: give it 'ere". Living on a marina is good for that kind of thing. :)
     
  20. Yep, you need a decent iron for this, proper DC powered one, otherwise you'll risk damaging the PCB.


    The old adage about a workman blaming their tools needs restating for the modern era.
     
    Iain McAvoy, nicktuft and Zed like this.

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