Sliding Door Middle Sill Replacment - where do i weld to?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Marc Mears, Sep 25, 2012.

  1. Hello i need a bit of help today.
    Just cut out the old sills and i am unsure as to where to attach the new middle sill- as there was nothing left of the old sills to help me
    As you can see from the picture there are 2 thick sections of steel -The top arrow being the bottom of old track and the bottom arrow- i am guessing the middle sill structure? Or is it the old outer sill?

    [​IMG]

    Anyhow i have cut off the bottom of the track and i am hoping that i can just weld the new inner sill to the top part of the old track (i have measured the gap on the old one to be 25mm)


    [​IMG]

    Or do i need to buy a new track and weld the middle sill to the bottom of the track - all quite confusing.
    Thanks for looking
     
  2. the bottom bit is part of the outer sill which forms the channel for the door seal.

    just answered the question on your resto thread (hopefully ;D) but I'll recap here if it helps.

    the new middle sill for the sliding door doesnt have the upper guide so you need to retain that bit.

    a lot of people graft the new middle sill to the old one (making sure the track is in the right place)

    depending on how bad your original is will depend on where you join the new panel (I'd say keep as much of the original as possible)

    I opted to carefully unpick my middle sill and remove from the bus, carry out repairs to it then re weld it back on.

    I'll try and find the pick on my resto thread which may help
     
  3. just had a look and waaaaay to many pics to post up ;D

    how I did mine starts on page 6 of my resto thread with loads of detailed pics so easier if I post the link........hope it helps :)

    http://thelatebay.com/index.php?topic=369.100
     
  4. Thanks - that’s just confirmed what i had hoped- will leave the top track in place and seam weld / Plug weld the new middle sill to the right height to the back of the old track - with the 25mm gap (will get the door runner out to check for free movement).
    Thanks again for your help

    Marc -
    will post new pics tomorrow of what I’ve done
     

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