Ah...got you In that case..... I have two situations. 1) I'm AM deluded (as @Joker so shrewdly suggested) and the results are correct ;-) Next job...find out why. 2) The RR results are incorrect and therefore I'd like to find out the real results. Either way I'm going to do a compression test tonight....because like most of us on here I actually enjoy doing this stuff
Driving home today (not in the van) I had started to convince myself of a schoolboy error and I'd find a plug lead off or misplaced. Alas, no. I'm nothing if not optimistic!
I dont think you have lost the plot at all Im just waiting for you to get back on the rolling road with the original chap
'Live' compression test results... 1- 145 psi 2- 145 psi 3- 143 psi 4- 140 psi (Had to remove carb on RHS (1+2)to get to plug so figures taken through open manifold. LHS taken with carb in situ but fully open) Engine cold. Not bad for an engine I've been using for 9 years. No issue there. Away to re-re-re check valve clearances
Probably not....but it's another mental box ticked off These are cold results...but perhaps the valves are tight and once warm the valve is being kept open slightly...secretly eroding my precious valve stems. Is it only me has has trouble switching off from these things at night?
I cant remember if you said but does the linkage open fully? Are the carbs sealed properly ? I had to use a smudge of red high temp sealant between the gaskets, squirt some carb cleaner around the bases and listen for a engine note change.
Yes @Mucka fully open. Synchronised at idle at full open. No leaks. This us the weird thing. They are running beautifully. The idle is better than I managed to attain after rebushing and refurbishing a German solex. @Razzyh I could I suppose but logically this can't be more restrictive than stock? (I know some aftermarket exhausts are though!) This would be much simpler if the van was running like a bag of nails eh?! Is that the time? I'm off into the shower with the swarfega ;-)
I was thinking this but I was chatting to the chap via twitter and he said that even if (for example) the handbrake was on a bit, the run-off part where they knock it out of gear and let it slow down to measure the resistance in the drive train would detect this. We'll see. After the compression results and checking the valves again and re checking the linkage and finding everything sorted I'm stumped. I'll check the timing again tomorrow...not sure my neighbours would appreciate me checking full advance just now ;-)
You're suffering from Bay Obsessive Compulsive Disorder . A quarter of a bottle of Glenfiddich should fix it...
The way I read your graphs is that at 2000 rpm you had 56 Nm and now you've got about 68 Nm of torque - so lots more low down pulling ability making it a much more drivable bus in the usuable 2000-4000 rpm range. Success! PS where did you get your Solexes rebushed?
I like your @optimistic approach ;-) Still doesn't explain the anomaly between my results and @Mucka 's though.
Right...time to wrap this up and move on. Retest this morning Engine power - Before 45 After 48.6 Wheel Power - Before 29.1 After 36.3 Increase engine 3.6 bhp which is 8% Increase at wheel 7.2% which is 25% Which doesnt sound so bad considering the RR was advertising tuning for Tdi Golfs (one of which I own) with a power increase of 30 BHP (stock 130 BHP) which comes in at 23% As a layperson If I had paid for new carbs, exhaust and someone to fit it all and hadn't used a rolling road I'd still be delighted. In 'normal' driving conditions (like not revving the nuts of it on some rollers in a garage) it is lovely to drive. Smooth and requires much less gearchanging. Idles lovely etc etc and is more economical. If however I had paid all that and just saw a 3.6 bhp increase on paper I would be less than impressed! Right....time to move on. I have a rare 5 hours to myself. I'm off into the garage to work on my beetle!
