I’d say yes. A stock height van has the gaps the other way round. Hit a bump, you may knock a bit off the casting.
Grinding the thick bit off would double your rebound and might prevent some banging noises. People certainty used to chop them off for lowering in the bad old days when it was DIY or nothing, though that doesn't make it ok. Or How about using cranked lowering spring plates the other way up?
Only problem with doing that is with the limit removed on the spring plate the next bit that limits suspension travel is the CV joints and shocks
Perhaps a better way of ending up in the same place but no actual height gain then? It must be better if your suspension can travel in both directions though or you'll off road and get stuck with one wheel up in the air?
Cut a notch in the spring plate so it drops the amount you want but not so much that the CV joint angle or damper rebound limit is exceeded. Do you have high angle CV joints and long travel dampers?
No and with the limit on the spring plate i don't need them any more drop and i would plus longer drive shafts and i was trying to stay out of that sort of money
If you cut off the stops, the next thing that happens is the driveshafts can pull out of the CV joints at maximum lower extension.
Maybe if the stop on the casting was ground off to allow more travel Then a strap fastened between the the top and bottom damper mount a bit shorter in length than the full travel of the damper would work
The circlip should prevent it pulling out I’d guess that a stock damper would reach its full travel and/or the cv bind up before the shaft was in danger.
Stick some blue tack on the bottom stop If the spring plate hits it whilst driving it will leave a mark. Did you raise it by moving the plate on an outer spline?
No risk if the notch is cut carefully with no sharp corners. It’s only 2 or 3 mm at the spring plate to get 3 or 4 cm at the wheel, but don’t quote me on the numbers it’s just a guess and I can’t be bothered to work it out.
I think I'm going to fiddle with inner and outer splines and go down a centimetre and give my self a bit more clearance . I'm a bit worried about getting stuck somewhere if the wheel can't drop and becomes unloaded instead
I think theres a trick way, same move as bench assembly at high angles that the entire core of the CV joint pops out, rotates and sometimes pops back in leaving you with a CV joint boot wrapped round the drive shaft. I used to read the Hasta Alaska trip 'blog' on thesamba, amongst many stupid things he managed to twist a CV boot round the drive shaft going airborne on dirt roads in Central America. He got on my nerves in the end by managing to do everything wrong despite being taught and helped a lot along the way. He was in it for the image.. The circlip will facilitate this by pulling hard... but avoid it just falling out by sliding sideways out of one CV joint completely EMPI used to sell long drive shafts with allowance for the CV joints to slide on the splines for big wheeled Baja buggies.
