The torque needed to undo the nuts, especially if you have never removed them can be extremely high - I have twisted the end off a 3/4" breaker bar with an extension tube. Although it did say "DO NOT USE EXTENSION BARS" on it.. Basically locking the bus in place, fitting a 2 metre extension tube and standing (100kg weight .. ) and bouncing on the end (probably closer to 1500 ft/lb) of it was just enough.. Alternatively the suggestion is to get somebody with a very big rattle gun to loosen them, then dont use the big rattle gun to retighten them, just something more like the correct torque. My mains electric rattle gun can drive the nuts on but cannot undo them on my bus, its around the 250ft/lb level. Enough that it all stays put without the splines wearing away.
I did the exact same to a mate's 3/4" breaker bar. Borrowed a 1" breaker bar and a length of scaffold tube and got it straight off.
what about one of these, just mind your fingers and wheel arches !!! https://www.justkampers.com/00-5749...an8C4Z1gzTmteWLURO2TtvJ-95TqdHDkaApxDEALw_wcB But out of stock
I took a complete hub to my local garage and asked them if they could undo it, it came to me that way. They all came with there rattle guns giving it the large lol. The snap on one did it in the end.
If all that fails /\ get the disc cutter out. Cut the side of the nut off, as close to the drive shaft as you dare, then one good whack with a cold chisel and lump hammer, and it’s off. Best make sure new nuts are in stock first though..
The John Muir approach is using a cold chisel and a big hammer on the castellations of the nut to drive it round, and maybe stretch the nut open a bit .. .A bit like the EMPI whacker tool.
Bloomin brake pipe nut is stuck and rounding over now . It’s not that old a piece but were not a great fit (lengthwise) when I bought them pre made previously, and the nuts are crap quality. Where’s the best place to buy some copper pipe, nuts and flange tool? Also what size copper, tool but and nuts are required? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You may already be using one but I found that a proper brake pipe spanner made a huge difference when tackling the nuts. I always struggled with a standard spanner, wish I had bought the proper tool years ago. Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
Most good motor factor shoppe type places will have pre cut lengths with the correct union on each end , all you need to do is bend 'em - great if you're only doing the one Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Thanks for the suggestion @67westy I had forgotten that I needed to use the correct I bought the correct 11 mil one but unfortunately I had Foobarred the nut head already so have had to cut the brake line to remove the cylinder. But at least I can put the new one on correctly… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Borrowed a really good bit of kit for doing the ends of the brake pipes from a mate. I was searching locally for one then remembered that he would have one at the back his his garage A much cheaper solution and probably a much better tool then I would’ve bought Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Done my first end on a brake pipe. Whoopie And it doesn’t look too bad even if I say so myself! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When I was doing this a lot at the first sign it was going to be trouble, mole grips to crack it - not so tight to crush the fitting.
8’ Scaffold bar and a fat bloke. Do everything while your in there. Centre punch the nut and the hub, as a marker.
Now you’re just trying to annoy me with all those new shiny bits !!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
