So I have a spare distributor that I can now fit. Is the process: - manually rotate engine to TDC make sure that the rotor arm is pointing at no.1 plug remove current distributor on replacement distributor, make sure rotor arm is pointing in the direction of where no.1 plug will be when installed (not sure how to do this) install replacement distributor pray that the engine starts set the timing properly
Yes. There are two #1 TDCs, compression and exhaust strokes. You want it on compression, hence pointing at #1 in the dissy cap before removing dissy. The dissy may put up a fight coming out, usually the sealing o-ring glueing itself in. A gentle prise with two screwdrivers will get it out.
4. Install replacement distributor. 5. Look where the rotor arm is pointing, that's where no.1 lead goes, then 4-3-2 clockwise around the cap. 6. Static time to 7.5 degs BTDC 7. It will start.
Does it misfire when running steady when on slight de acceleration ....if so could be exhaust gasket leaking ...did with mine ,like what Malc said .
You won’t necessarily hear the leaks like a blowing exhaust, it may just be sucking in air somewhere. Test it by spraying something like brake cleaner on the joins while it’s running and listening for a change in the engine note.
Spare distributor turned out to be a dud (it was second hand and in worse condition that my original one). Happy to buy a new one - any recommendations for a low cost spare unit? On the plus side, I managed to reinstall the original one and the engine started and ran. Timing only needed very slight tweak when the engine was running so chuffed with myself
What I do is go to swap meets and buy up old Bosch distributors - I got a non-rattly parts distributor with a worn points cam (no lubrication on points plastic cam follower by PO) for £5 with a working vacuum capsule on a random grab off a swapmeet table at the Vee Dub show. I have had to pay maybe £20 at the Slough Swapmeet for a much nastier example that was rusted solid. As an exercise, I rebushed that distributor using Oilite bushings and it works.. Then I gather good bits together - so out of about six, I have three Bosch distributors that work and dont rattle. And one cheap new Accuspark one that ended up overdoing the timing advance, with the help of a broken timing light, and helping me melt a piston. The Chinese distributors are about £12 each off Alibaba.com, the Accuspark electronic modules are £3 each off Alibaba (min. order 500 units) .. Sell for £100 in the UK ..
So...the problem continues and it's not a misfire, it's more if a backfire through the carbs if that makes sense. Video The popping sound is coming through the carb and it's left side only. For context, we were doing around 55 on light throttle. When the van is started up, it drives great for about 15mins (pulls strongly and runs well). When the problem starts, power drops off quite a bit. To ke this suggests that it's heat related. Any thoughts on what could cause this?
I would start checking stupid things like spark plug and spark plug lead for flash over or just fallen off .. Then valve clearances and compression.. like a valve isn't closing when the cylinder is firing..sticking valve, loose valve seat,. Losing power from one cylinder will drop the top speed to more like 50-55mph.
Arrr, sticky valve / loose valve guide... at a guess. I'm assuming putting you foot down or easing off changes nothing?
It's more prominent on light throttle. Not really noticeable when foot flat to the floor. So...what's the process for fixing this little problem?
