I think this ( that I habitually post) could have been the result of a metric olive on an imperial pipe. As you say, close but no cigar, you would have to graunch it up to crush it enough to seal. I think it was a 10mm olive on a 3/8" (9.5mm) pipe. Only professionals ever worked on the boat before me. It's one reason I chuff a bit about the narrowboat gas regulations. I had a real struggle finding the correct imperial olive, in the end an old boy on a coal boat found me a couple.
A quick cautionary tale ... I fitted a new cooker but struggled to get the correct gas connection nut , thought I'd got it sussed and headed of for a long weekend away Cooking for the first time I lit the new Spinflo stove which was all shiny and far better than the old one but after a couple of minutes there was an ominous POP from below the cooker, roughly from the gas union so it was sarnies and beer for the weekend !! Next chance I got I whipped the cooker out and found this pinched olive ... The worse case scenario which could easily have happened as i have no sense of smell was forgetting to turn off the gas and getting into a van full of gas fancying a cuppa ... Be careful out there .... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
@Lasty lucky boy! Another good reason to fit a test point in the system. They're cheap as chips and as I mentioned earlier will give a pressure related warning for any leaks. Got to be worth doing especially as there are so many older appliances being used. Available in all sizes... And this is the type of fixed regulator we have. Threaded inlet from the bottle pigtail, 8mn outlet and a built in test point...12 to 15 ish quid. I'm not sure if it's exactly that one, I took advice from the company we bought all the kit from... Neither of these things are expensive so why not?
Bloomin good info there Neil. I'll be getting one of these for the new van's gas system . I know the Smev hobs have a cut out if there is no flame, same with a gas fridge. Do they make a noise/squeal?
That fitting is for a manometer connection Louey...I assume that's what you mean. So the tester puts his tester via a rubber tube into that point after cracking it open. It's a little port effectively. He/she will then systematically isolate appliances if there's more than one, to make sure there aren't any leaks in any of the pipe unions, and the seals etc inside the appliances. No point in having good joints if the hob or propex or whatever is leaking internally . There's usually a gas drop vent under the bottles but not under the heaters etc. For the Boat Safety, they'll also test the flame fail devices on the hob to ensure gas is cut off if the flame goes out. It's all done by monitoring the pressure in the system...pressure drop when everything's off etc indicates leak
I think the safety check is a bit more technical I use the soapy water trick too, but I also picked up a can of stuff that checks for leaks. I'm thinking of going gas hob and electric Compression fridge with the new camper so less things to worry about - had too many occasions when the fridge wasn't level enough and it getting warm inside and sometimes you don't want to over advertise that you're stopping overnight and using leveling chocks. @theBusmonkey - I get what it is now properly instead of me guessing makes good sense.
All great advice I have a manometer connection but it's on the Propex inlet nut which is buried under a cupboard etc etc.... the inline one looks just the ticket so I'll be doing a bit more plumbing in the near future. Having no sense of smell I decided to simplify the whole gas set up in the van which started by buying a CRX50 12v fridge and doing away with the bank of gas taps . The cooker and Propex are now connected to a single feed from the gas bottle which means I went from maybe 20 connections and possible leaks to 6 ... As an added precaution I also bought a cheapo Chinese gas sniffer from the bay of evil for about 20 quid , the wand type with a flexi steel tube you can poke around any potential faulty joint/appliance and it really does work - money well spent Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Neil, may I ask if your regulator a 2 stage type and does it output at 37mbar? Thanks Edit...just saw you answered the question above..sorry
30mb for internal gas supply Chris. It was what I was recommended and as we aren't dead that's either incredibly good luck or the bloke at Gas-it was right. Thanks for asking, I found my spare dissy cap and Swarfega at the back of the cupboard on top of the gas locker The hose coming in on the left is the pigtail from the bottle. The test point is on the top of the unit... Edit, as I know you're hoovering up info, that regulator copes with propex, 2 burner hob and Cadac on external point at the same time... Edit 2...original Westy double burner btw
Cheers Neil. Hoovering up is very apt. It's good to know that the Propex works at 30mbar as the manual (I know, who reads the manual ) says it needs 37mbar. My original Westy burner used to be fed at 37mbar single stage regulator, so same applies. I think regs changed in EU to move towards 30mbar for campers, but I might be wrong there. I'm dropping my Propex off to them for a full service next week, so I'll ask them about this as well. I'm leaning towards a very similar system to yours in the long run ATM.
I'm picking up my serviced Propex next week and I'm buying the ancillary bits from them that did not come with the heater when I bought it from eBay. I'm planning to get the following bits, but was wondering if I've missed anything or what...advice would be gratefully received The heater will be under the camper in a steel box (as yet to be made). #Combustion 'inlet and exhaust' pipes #90° silicone bends for pipes #Silencer, is this needed? #'On the move' end caps? #Hot air pipes for heating to connect to original walkway vent and under benchseat vent? #Copper gas pipe and fittings...maybe not from Propex directly but I've not looked at this side yet as I'm guessing this bit is standard. Thanks all
Speak to Propex if you haven't already about how best to bring the big hot air inlet and warm air return pipes into the under van box. On the HS2211 there is a nice blue plastic 'Manifold' on the casing. They may be able to supply one separately and advise if that's a good thing to do. That way it solves a potential weather proofing issue. The manifold has the electrical inputs for switching the heater situated between the 2 big flanges as well so that may also help
