Hi Need some advice.. After splitting the case I have found this //uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/ 20191112/0998b7f2c63de3ae6a9b0ee2c0fdf691.jpg Well it looks like they all quite heavily pitted..only done 10-15k..got them new from CB about 6 years ago..the camshaft looks ok to me but it will be replaced anyway..now my question is are they junk?..or is there any resurfacing possible?..my budget does not exist at the moment so this is a quite nasty surprice for me.. I did the break in using a proper oil etc..I read that this is quite common thing with „cheapo” aftermarket lifters..cant remember tho but guessing they were bugpack ones.. BTW does anyone happen to have some old std camshaft that could possibly measure the lift for me so I could compare it to mine?..I still dont know what I ve got but pretty sure it the wrong one for my engine Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
If they are domed ( rock if you put two face to face ) still, then the pitting is crap metal and probably happened alnost immediately on break in .. If they havent trashed the camshaft by now, put them back in the same positions they came from and start saving..
If you just want to get a few more miles out of the engine while you save up for parts refit those old lifters and the old cam but don’t fit a new cam with old lifters. Measuring cam lift won’t tell you much, you need to know the duration and timing. Look at the end of the cam where the gear bolts on – any numbers and/or letters stamped?
Nope..nothing no numbers or letters but Im gonna try and find a stock used cam (I know they seem to be shot) to make sure its the correct one for the stock engine.. Cheers Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
Is the cam gear bolted on or riveted? (factory cam gears are riveted) Do some research on Type 4 cams; the factory cam is really a bad choice for a bus engine if it is larger than 1700.
I can measure up a couple of cams probably, but only one I definitely know what it is still new waiting to go in..and it's not stock! Will be able to get a measure and "lift" off the others as an idea if you like but "stock" bus is 0.329" lift on intake and 0.312" on exhaust according to Webcam's 320 (or 372) grind. a 140 (or 142) grind called "stock" also is the 914 engine one if you find it and that's 0.393" and 0.368" (in/ex).
Its an aftermarket cam..I bolted og cam gear to it.. I actually did a research and some ppl say the stock cam is a good choise for a 2 litre if you want a low torquey engine so Im confused..anyway I will do a proper research when will be looking for a new one..at this stage looking to put all back together and run it for one or two seasons.. Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
I only know of one (albeit well respected) person who likes a standard cam. Most engine builders, and Type 4 specialists believe it limits power and makes the engine run hot at idle to reduce emissions. A cam with more valve overlap and duration makes the engine more efficient and produce more power off idle but maximum torque will be higher in the rev range.
Will be looking for some compromise then just dont want to change anything else on my engine like rockers etc..what’s your sugestions on this matter? Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tell me a bit about the engine. If it has an aftermarket bolt on cam it isn’t standard but I’ll guess it’s a 2.0l with low compression bus pistons and small valve 2.0l bus heads. What is the compression ratio? Are there head gaskets? (there shouldn’t be) Which carbs, or is it fuel injected? And why have you taken the engine apart?
..a lomg story really..since day one when I put it together it idled like crap..it was reliable but shakey at tick over low vacuum and when I plugged the vacuum gauge it always indicated low vacuum at idle and late valve timing..everything was checked a million times valves always spot on timing carbs set up..Its hard to explain but I just know theres a problem with the valve train and valve timing..heads all good guides valves seats all done so they dont leak.. Cheers Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
Considering advice from Mr Westy and one (albeit well respected) person who likes a standard cam, and a few hours of endless circles on Samba etc , I went Webcam73/86... seemed a fair compromise of a bit more lift and duration without going mad... but not the cheapest and only seem to find in USA. But most non stock cams advise uprated springs ... the 914 grind from earlier seems only mild upgrade that didn't specifically say. Not totally convinced they're required if you're not lifting too high or revving a lot faster but as I was buying from States anyway and paying shipping thought I'd take advantage of a good offer. Plenty of info here on options.. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/category-s/958.htm If you do increase duration and overlap dynamic compression comes into it more too and so static CR starts to need to go up which can have a knock on, worth keeping an eye on. Rockers can usually stay stock but I'm going swivel foot adjusters because we did on last one and its seemed to work just fine . Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
One of the consequences of increasing valve overlap and duration is a reduction of vacuum at idle and carbs don’t work well – decreasing the venturi size can improve the idle but then flow is reduced at high engine speed. It sounds like your engine had a cam with too much overlap and duration and/or the carb vents were too large for the capacity. Did the engine perform well once above idle? If a very smooth idle is important to you, then a standard or very mild cam would probably be best. And of course, don’t fit big carbs or a lightened flywheel. Deefer66 is using a Web 73/86 and that would probably be a good choice for you and Webcams are the best available, although they are more expensive than other manufacturers. https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Web-Cam-Type-4-Camshaft-73-86-Grind-p/web-cam-73-86-split-duration.htm For what it’s worth, I’ve used a Scat C25 cam in a 2.0l engine with 30 vents in Weber 40 IDF carbs, 1800 heads (41x34 valves) and low compression bus pistons for several years, performance was good and it idled at around 850 revs but perhaps not as smoothly as you would like. Aircooled.net says ‘This is a nice upgrade on stockish engines, it's an outstanding bus cam!’
..thank you guys for your input and great advice..hope I’ll find something for now and be back on subject when money allows.. Cheers Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
..well a little bit of update on my engine..I have spent few hours in my shed this morning and..well it wasnt a good day..I managed to unbolt the cam gear and heres what we have Its so bloody fragile..plus two threads are shot anyway so its junk So Im done for now..no budget for a new stuff atm..just be worned if you ever be undoing bolt on aftermarket cam its made of Marmitee Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
.. I'd have been a bit more gentle seating my cam bearings if I'd have seen that first. Was it a new aftermarket cam? Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
..PM me the price please..I found one with set of lifters from cj engine but its in Germany so the shipping cost might be an issue..first tho I need to get rid of some stuff.. Wysłane z iPad za pomocą Tapatalk
