Driver's side all works as it should, but passenger lock won't open with the key. The inside pull handle unlocks the door fine. The key locks the door but key won't move to open it. I've not removed a cab door lock before and mine has 3 cross head screws but can't see anything else. The door side latch has a cross head above and below and there is one interior screw which sits higher than the door handle. Presumably the key barrel is worn, but I would like to know how to release the door handle itself. Door card and water barrier removed.
It could just need a bit of a clean and lube up? Graphite power in the lock itself, and then I use white lithium grease on the latch mechanism. It could be that you mechanism is all gummed up though and removing it for a good clean is in order. The handle is held in by a hex head bolt either end of it accessed from inside the door. With that out of the way and the screws you mention above it should then pop out (it's a snug fit in there though and may need a bit of jiggery pokery to get it out).
^^ As above , remove the door card and you`ll see what needs to done . The unlocking issue could be a broken lug on the inner latch - you`ll see what i mean when you get the handle off and see how it all works ...
Or it could be "that" pesky little spring that pulls the mech in line with the wibbly bit on the handle. Slamming the door swings them apart without the spring. V common. If you jacked up that side of the van and played the bongos on the door you might find it swings back and the key works. Edit: Jack up the other side.
It should become obvious when you remove the door card, mine from memory had a small screw that came loose that is visible under the main lock barrel....can't recall if I didn't get access through a hole in the door pressing....and it might have been an Allen type small bolt.
Start with taking it out , cleaning off years of grime then re grease moving parts in the lock. But.. There is also a part of the mechanism where there is a slotted piece which gets lifted by the key turning in the barrel. Gradually this slot wears longer and eventually you cant turn the key far enough. A master of TIG welding could fix it but otherwise it is easier to get a new lock.
Most likely this, Take the mechanism out soak & clean, get all the grunge out. Toothbrush & thinners, whitespirit or whatever. Lube with graphite, not WD40... this will attract more grunge.
Right, had another look at the door lock. The exterior handle has no screws at all anywhere. There are the 3 screws, 2 on the rear side of the door and 1 interior screw. These screws I have loosened and the lock plate and latch move about. Through an inspection hole I can see the long rod eye connection at the door lock. What I don't see is how to remove the handle from the lock mechanism. Its a bit of a mystery.
Allen socket screw from the inside - one at each end of the handle. Your L shaped allen key may not quite reach one of them...or it might. Don't drop the screws inside the door...they disappear into a black hole. Taking off the handle will reveal the problem whatever it is.
Strangely enough - this has also just happened to mine - must be the MG effect . The small trigger on mine is stuck in and the key doesn't work and the door is securely locked from the inside too . - loads of WD40 has no effect so it looks like a disassembly is needed
As above there is a allen socket screw either end. Stick a torch in the door and you should be able to see them. One is a bit of a pig to get to and is accessed via a hole in the door if I remember correctly.
As somebody posted above, there is a tiny screw holding a lever onto the end of the barrel. The lever operates the locking mech providing the spring inside the locking mechanism hasn't broken. WD40 may not be wise, it may just encourage that screw to unwind more and you don't want to loose it. Fingers crossed it's that for both of you because the spring replacement is a PITA.
All of the above ^. If you've got the door card off, you'll see how it all works. The door handle's just held on with a couple of hex-0head bolts inside - easy to remove. There are two (or three?) screws that hold the lock in. If you've got a later Bay, you'll need to unscrew the plastic lock button, disconnect the interior door release by pulling the curvy clip off. The whole lot should then come out. Putting it back in is a tussle until you get the hang of it. But...first just take the handle off and check the spring and "pointy cam" lever is still attached.
Seems mine is like the one in the video clip. There is a 'hidden' screw inside the door which holds the front part of the door handle opposite end to key barrel, as expected the screw is going to be a challenge to undo, so far its not budging. But its a nice sunny day down here and plenty of time so cup of tea is in order while the plus gas does its stuff.
If your allen key is a bit hard to turn because only the short L bit is poking out, use a small ring spanner hooked over the end to provide enough leverage. Or find a 1/4" drive socket set with a hex bit..I think they fit through the hole.. of course thats one more bit to go to the bottom of the door when the hex head screw grips the bit and they fall together into the abyss. As its a combination of brass and steel in there its quite possible you will need to use the socket head a s a guide for drilling out the annoying item.
Exactly this. I had the same issue, replaced the missing spring and bingo! As others have said, use graphite powder to lube the lock mechanism. I have picture of the spring somewhere - I'll have a look.
it could just be the screw holding the interior door pull finger plate - if it's too long it will do exactly this
