I advise that you go with what's been said above and buy a genuine VDO 5 bar sender. However, me being a skinflint, I picked up one of the cheap Chinese copies direct from Aliexpress when they were doing a deal at £10 inc P&P. The same sender now works out at £20 all in from the same source. The low pressure warning on mine is 0.8 Bar but so far has been absolutely fine with no flickering oil light at hot idle... Before I bought this one, I was running a genuine VDO sender but couldn't use the WK (warning light ) output as it had come from some old Audi which had a high RPM, low pressure warning system (may have been 2 Bar at 2000RPM or similar). The output to my 5 Bar gauge however was fine and so I know from comparing the two that my new cheapy Chinese jobby is actually close enough as far as accuracy is concerned. Whether it'll last is another story.
Thanks for all the replies. Read through and digesting. Possibly found a VDO option that I like...one with a backlight that is (no alarm though). I’ll do a bit more research on this but closer now than before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s taken some hunting, but since VDO gets the nod from everyone, here is what could be a good combination that ticks everyone’s list. 5 Bar: https://www.etbinstruments.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=146 https://www.furneauxriddall.com/acatalog/VDO-Viewline-Pressure-Gauge-5-Bar-72-PSI-A2C59514123.html No single website gives a full description. But these items are as follows: •VDO Sender... -M10 thread —Earthed via the thread -2x m4 contacts —Warning Contact set @ 0.6 bar (9psi) •VDO Gauge... -Backlight -0.5 bar increment markings @snotty Although i’m the year of the dragon and raised in Hong Kong, I do try to avoid Lucky Number Seven Fortunate Dragon companies. @zedders 10 bar are indeed plentiful. The above website seems to have a whole range of 5 bar options. @77Westy I’ll never live down my previous start up procedure. In line thermostats are new to me. Look to be >£100 (a future upgrade). I’ll have the fan housing flaps & thermostat installed from the start, at least. @scrooge95 The JK kit says that the sender is Empi. Just to clear something up...I don’t have an external oil cooler (hoping velocity ring & hoover bit render that unnecessary), so it’s just the external oil filter I was wondering if made a difference to all this. The sender unit itself confused me (such confusion I managed to pass on). Physically it replaces the current Oil Pressure Switch, but with the 2 connectors on the new sender, it replicates its function by wiring it to the dash oil light. Dual, Warning Contact etc, they get described in different terms but I think the above linked product is what has been suggested. Thanks everyone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you don’t have an external cooler, you don’t need an oil thermostat. The rest you seem to be on the right track.
One of those things where cheap and reasonably good isn't available. I only have VDO because they were installed on my van when I bought it but there doesn't appear to be a better option.
Our American cousins seem to favour Dakota gauges, possibly because they’re made in Sioux Falls…in Dakota…in America.
Thanks dude. Nice thread jump with the joke. I hope you were impressed that I now at least know what different carburettor setups look like. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hopefully you can explain to me at the next techenders. I didnt want to confuse the other thread with a pic of a different set up, as there is enough confusion there already.
Final sensor to pick your brains about. Oil temperature. I’ve read that Hoover suggests the best temperature to take is after the oil pump (last mechanical process in the system before reentering the engine). To emulate this i’m thinking to put an in-line sensor after the external oil filter (which, under the battery tray, might cool the oil somewhat compared to the sump), using this adaptor (which I think has to be earthed)... It will thread directly in to the oil filter head/mount with the correct thread for the sensor (K type, fast response)... The hoses (1/2” ID) are sleeved in fibreglass, so the temperature shouldn’t change much within them; letting me know what is actually entering the engine. As a comparison, for an internal temperature, I have the 123+ Distributor (accurate but unreliable bluetooth, yet can still be useful). This isn’t an unusual setup, from what I can gather, so my main question is: •Would the sensor hamper oil flow/pressure? If dimensions given/garnered are correct, there will be just over 3mm clearance to the sides of the sensor and just under 2mm below it... Perpendicular cylinders, so it’s too much maths for me to think beyond blocks. I’ve read the smallest oil channel in the engine (to the Heads) is 5mm. Not sure what the rest of the system is! 10mm? Cheers guys. Oil Pressure Sender has been ordered. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wouldn't put all that clobber in just to measure oil temp, and I wouldn't use a thermocouple. How difficult do you want to make your life ? Thermistor in the sump will be fine.
I don’t mean to be troublesome. Just exploring all options (learning in the process) as i’ll never do this again. I really don’t like the dipstick type (plus twice the cost, having just doubled my budget on the oil pressure gauge). I’ve read they need bending and/or cut & soldered to fit; which seemed like more faff than just screwing things together. Oil Sump Plate sender is a definite no, it seems, for many reasons. Last question on this then (promise, as I know the only remaining option is dipstick ). What about the Oil Pressure Relief Screw VDO Sender & Gauge? It might take a temperature from the case though, which I was trying to avoid by going in-line after the filter. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Measuring oil temperature works fine from the pressure relief valve screw – at least it does on a type 4. And I’d rather have that than an in-line sensor almost blocking the oil supply into the engine. Forget about absolute accuracy of the measurement, what you need to look for is a trend away from whatever it normally reads. You really don’t like simple and easy, do you?
There is a reason people use oil dipstick senders to measure oil temp! Having seen your handi work you will have no issues fitting the dipstick bit.
I don't really care how hot my sump oil is, I fitted a "normal" type sender directly in my sandwich plate for oil temp into engine just before bearings. The dodgy bluetooth 123 reports the same temp.
