Having adjusted my torsion bars, replacing the rubber donuts etc my rear brakes do a great impression of an approaching steam train. I thought I may have mixed up the drums but having swopped them over there's no improvement. Does they just need to bed in or do I need to do a complete overhaul of both. I've bled the brakes (twice) and done the adjusting up pumping and adjusting back. On top of this the braking power isn't what it was. There's a little movement in one of the hubs so I'll get the bearing ordered but would this explain the loss of braking force and the noise is on both sides. Hoping I've just been a moron and missed something simple...as usual. Maybe I've used the right handed screwdriver instead of a left....it is LHD after all. Cheers fellas. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Remember that the adjuster spur on the rear drums work opposite direction to expand or opposite ..can be confusing and can forget when doing them . I have painted little red arrows in the direction of winding on the brakes . But of coarse you may know this already .
All rear bearings should have some movement, it’s factory spec , no need to change that how do you mean sounds like a train ?
Exactly this , metallic scraping or shoes rubbing ?? Did you renew the drums ? There's been issues with Brazzie drums catching the old backing plates ... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Same drums, same set up. I put a new backing plate on the side without the bearing play but nothing else. Yeah the sound is a rhythmic metal scrape..beat.. scrape..beat. that's why I thought it could be the bearing. I used the inspection hole in the backing plate to view the shoe moving tighter to the drum so I'm pretty sure I've got my screw adjustment in the right direction but yeah it's normally my mistake! I'll get a picture when I'm next on it. Could the return springs on the shoes be finished making them bind and not release off again? Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Sounds like the backing plate is rubbing if its a periodic scraping. But if there us a clunk too then check that the handbrake lever is held on properly and if it has the horseshoe clip holding it on the pin , that the horseshoe clip has been squeezed up a bit or it falls off leaving the handbrake lever to maybe rub on the drum. With this one the sound changes as you pull on the handbrake while driving along.
If you’ve changed the backing plates, they may rub on the drum. My new ones did. Don’t try and bend them. I just left mine to rub and they “adjusted” themselves eventually. Unlikely you’ve done anything wrong.
I've just been working on this issue. I have replaced back plates, wheel cylinders, shoes, handbrake cables, springs, clips and drums. The noise sounded exactly like a train! The inner edge of the drum was scraping on a couple of high-spots on the backplate. As Snotty says, don't try and knock the high spots down as it's double layer thick metal and you'll only make a mess. Much easier to take the high spots off the inner edge of the drum. With the wheel off and the two m7 retaining screws out of the drum, turn the drum a few times and when you slide the drum off you'll see the score marks in the edge of the drum. I used a finger belt sander to gently remove all the score marks. Refit and repeat until there are no more score marks and no noise Or you could get them professionally skimmed. Or drive it until it wears down anyway. EDIT I've just done the other side and taken photos of each stage if that would be if any use?
The look of horror on the two dog-walkers faces that I passed on my short first trip the other day confirmed I should do mine. I think they thought a steam roller was coming around the corner. Both rear wheels are silent now
Mine did when I changed mine ,I just took a bit off the rim with a coarse sanding pad on angle grinder, It still did it for a while but eventually they gave in
Bit of a follow up, got my head stuck into the Bentley manual and realised I'd missed out the rather important piece of information regarding a recently detached push rod leading into the servo. Too wet to do today but fingers crossed I've reassembled it without any play causing the servo to engage the brakes permanently. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks for all the advice meantime. Its invaluable having multiple possibilities to cross off the list. Shame I'm such a numpty really. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Ok so further to my last regarding the poorly installed brake pushrod, I backed it off the servo leaving the 1mm play suggested by the Bentley manual (& @snotty! Cheers for that!) Which resulted in masses more breaking power and a huge reduction in rear brake drum noise! Result. Still some scuffing noises though; some of which I'm going to put down to the new back plate. @davidoft how much rear wheel movement is within tolerance? I can get a decent top to bottom wobble. Still need a bit of convincing that my left side rear hub bearing isn't on the way out! Thanks for all the help guys it's invaluable and very reassuring. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Success! If there’s not a teeny bit of free play, the m/c piston can’t retract fully, so the brakes may stay partially on.
enough that you go ooooo that moves, but not so much it moves you go blooming heck that moves backing plate catching on repro backing plates is der ra grrrrr, unfortunately
