..my engine problem..

Well.. I have this problem with my engine rough idling for quite bit long time.. I have been messing with a couple of dizzy's and coils's and still couldn't get it running/idling well.. I bought a dwell/tach meter and having a bit of time connected it to check how it goes... Last year I fitted new distributor with electronic ignition thing in it so thought it will resolve the poor idling issue.. Nothing like it I am afraid.. I read on some forums that having electronic ignition installed the cam/dwell angel is fixed and all the readings don't mean anything... However some other guys experiences tell that it should read at least about 70s.. (with points 45-50).. I am really bad on electrics but I suspect there must be some electrical problem (coil? hmm I swapped it with type 1 is there any difference between them type1s and 4s?).. Here is a short video I set the timing at 7,5btdc and idle it at 850-900rpms.. Think the spark might be quite weak but where to looking at?


Hmm..any sugestions please? I done over 3000 miles on it and its pretty good on mpg but compering to my bug its running pretty c..p

 

Hi Arek - your video is showing as private and won't open. As to the dwell on the ignition I've got a Pertronix. You can get a measurement of dwell but I don't hink it's very meaningful. Mine was 61 degrees when I checked it. It's run like that for 7 years.

 

Hi
Thx for quick response.. It should work now.. Hmm yours 61 deg sound pretty good compare to mine 19-20...

 

What makes you think its electrical? Have you done a compression test?

 

Nope..not done yet but will do as soon as get new battery.. Just a thought its electrcal as done bottom/big ends new exhaust valves last year but to be honest it ran rough before.. Forgot to mention its quite hard to start when cold (when starts its like running on 2/3cylinders then its ok when warms up)

 

Have you balanced the carbs? Mine sounded like it was running on 3 until I sorted the balance.
I can view the video now BTW.

 

Do your valves first, if you haven't done them. Statically time your new dissy with a light bulb (engine off). This gives you a starting point. Ignore any dwell angle readings - they don't have any meaning.

 

It might also be worth checking the distributor is seated properly and not worn.
But mostly look for vacuum leaks.

 

Thanks guys.. So the readings dont mean anything do they? Ok thats good then.. I thought it means something wrong with ignition/timing weak spark? Anyway I have checked it for any vacuum leaks before and didnt find any.. But the carbs.. Im running stock solexs and to be honest they have always been my main suspects.. However in the past I ran much worse condition solexes and didnt have that poorly idling engine..but I know 2 carbs and 1 thats 2 different stories.. BTW they are balanced as I got the tool but dont trust them unfortunatelly never affort to buy new ones:-(

 

you are going to go around in circles here unless you start with the basics and move up. Check the valves first, then timing, then you can start looking at your carbs. and gubbins. I had the same problems as you but mine turned out to be airleak related. The valves gaps were closing up due to an air leak on the throttle spindles which caused one side to run lean. This gave way to further problems. Once the valve seats got too hot they started to sink into the head. New carbs fitted but the valve seat started to sink at an alarming rate so a new head was fitted. Now I check everything pretty much every other month.

 

Yep..well think I will start to look for good carbs ICTs have quite good opinion as far as I know.. So need good starting point to play with other things.. Valves timing generally checked so I suspect worn out carbs might be the issue.. I was suposed to replace them last year but I over spent for other stuff needed replacing.. Anyway big thanks guys

 

My idle was good some times and all over the shop I checked all basics and found fuel coming out of throttle body's on my solexs !! So air was getting in to !! I have webber icts fitted now made a huge difference in performance after I got them rolling road set up !! Throttle response now is brilliant !!

 

One of my customers with a stock 2l (albeit in a T25) got 90BHP on the RR with a pair of DRLA40's.

 

Yeah.. I can believe it..still regret sold my DRLAs years ago.. But cant go this way unfortunatelly as got eber BN4 fitted so anything bigger then stock Solexes or eventualy ICTs wont fit:-(

 

on a points based set up dwell refers to the number of degrees (out of 360) during which the points are closed, in order to charge up the ignition coil.....as soon as the points open, this stored charge takes path of least resistance and jumps to one of the HT leads (via the rotor arm)

for eleccy set up, dwell is now the length of time it takes to fully charge up the inducer....so old school Dwell meters are largely irelevant

 

Now thanks for explaining me that in a simple way As said before Im bad on electrics but now I think I get the point!