No. When a van won't run properly there's an order to do things. Valve gaps, timing, carbs. If your gaps aren't right no amount of fiddling with the next things will give you a result. That done it's timing because no amount of fiddling with the carb will get over wrong timing. Last is carbs because if the gaps and/or timing are wrong... On another thought regarding heat and expansion - have you checked the plugs to be sure one isn't loose? Or checked the exhaust/heads nuts for tightness? Both those things when hot and expanded could seal where cold they may not. Same with inlet manifold nuts. Good luck.
And one other thing to think about… if you have an air leak, through say a missing vac pipe bung, or perished inlet manifold rubbers, they often run ok with the choke on, and then get worse as the choke goes off. So check for air leaks in the aforementioned areas.
Just onto the last plug and they are all heavily fouled so possibly running rich. I’ve changed the coil with an HT lead to dizzy cap that had a more snug fit. Tried it on changing the coil and it did idle. Will have a go at the valves in the morning when it has cooled properly. in terms of air leaks, it gets better the longer it runs and the hotter it gets so yes it would have to be something that expands with heat. Therefore, if it isn’t the coil of plugs then possibly the valves are too loose getting tighter with heat, possibly? In terms of timing I may be stuck as I don’t have a gun and really struggle with static timing and the electronic ignition.
That must be the 10th time you've swapped the coil? Duff coils get WORSE as they heat up, not better. With that in mind - why do you keep doing this? And - how many coils do you have on board - a box full?
Ha ha, just one. Only changed twice but first time I did it wouldn’t idle and I think it was because the HT lead didn’t fit snug. Trying all sorts out of desperation.
It would still idle if you held the lead 5mm away from the coil. Where are you at the moment? Someone might feel inclined to buzz over with a timing gun.
Without checking the basics you`re pi$$ing in the wind ... Sorry for being so blunt but check the clearances and then look at stripping the carb - it`s all about eliminating possible issues . Can`t really check the timing properly without a timing gun , now might be a good time to actually buy one ??
Very first thing I’d do was check the timing with a strobe. If it’s way out you’d want to know now and adjust it. This may solve 99% of issues. I’d then go back and check everything else like valve gaps and plugs etc plus doing the timing again of course. mine ran crap and very hot and timing was way out, yep you really need a timing gun now
I have one but at home. Was running out of space for tools and took a gamble. Yep going to check clearances in the morning.
Not far out of Poole, Wareham. I’ve got it booked into to get a new pop top lid at an upholstery place in Poole on Monday hence the rush to get it running. It got me to Poole this morning okay but then started struggling getting close and on the return. Took it out for another run later after fettling and it played up until we turned round and came back.
Can’t see how valves gaps could suddenly change to give you issue. Good thing to check of course anyway.
Fair play then - i have a small cheapo one that lives in the van but that won`t help ... Poole ?? I was down there midweek although that doesn`t help either although the guy i met for a chat about some work might be able to ... @JamesLey ?? He's busy but you never know ..
This saga gets worse. Adjusted valves now no backfire but the rattling noise is horrendous so I mustn’t have tightened them off properly when adjusting. Going to the pub because I need it whilst the engine cools and will do it again!
Well they were loose, 2 and 4 intakes had come off hence the noise. All back on adjusted and tightened. Starts and sounds okay. Let’s see tomorrow if it misfires/backfires.
