Manifold gator removal advise please

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by kirkle01, Mar 25, 2016.

  1. I'm still getting to grips with the workings and maintenance of engines but picking things up pretty quick however I have lots of cracks in my manifold gators which are drawing air into my carb and it just cuts out all the time . As this is a first for me to change can anyone tell me the way to do this correctly ? Is it just 2 bolts either side of the manifold ? Do I have to strip other bits off the engine to do this ect ?
    Cheers in advance

    Here's a photo off google to show what I mean

    image.png
     
  2. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If you have a manifold with the heat risers coming up from the exhaust, then you may have some difficulty just fitting the gaiters without having to take other components out, as the manifold is also fixed down in the middle to the engine block (if it is stock) or just trapped under the alternator stand if it is a progressive.
    For instance : the elbows bolted to the cylinder head that the gaiters connect to get trapped under the air outlets in the cooling fan housing if you unbolt them. You may need a little more clearance to get them out.
    So you may have to release the alternator clamp band and take off the fan belt. Then loosen the two 10mm bolts each end of the fan housing where it sits on the cylinder head tinware - those little ratcheting ring spanners help here. Then remove the thermostat underneath the right hand air deflector plate under the engine - a square piece unbolts separately to allow access. This releases the wire coming from the fan housing to the thermostat.
    Now you can lever up the fan housing enough (I lift it up then stick a tommy bar from a socket set in the gap) to get the elbows off..
    Extra points are awarded for the little bit of wire hanging down from the thermostat dropping off and then you have to (difficult but possible) fiddle it back into place without dropping the engine.

    I did this sequence yesterday in my hunt to get the fan off to change a bearing on the alternator.
     
    vanorak and kirkle01 like this.
  3. Cheers dude il have a go at that now il keep updated
     
  4. the runners on some after market manifolds are about 25mm longer than stock....(I've had three like this:eek:)... makes the job much more difficult, unless you reduce the length....do as Mike suggests...once the manifold and cast ends are in situ, tighten sequentially.... silicone lube on the gaitors helps but isn't necessary...new gaskets ideally
     
    snotty likes this.
  5. Buy the red manifold boots the black ones don't last long
     
    snotty likes this.
  6. Got the red ones was quite a easy job I went about it a bit different but was better in long run .. Fuel pump off so I could get the back bolt on alternator stand loosen all 4 so there was a bit of free play , then unbolted manifold and the bolt on the carb housing that attaches to the manifold , then screwdriver off the case to bar the inlets up slightly to get the angle to take manifolds out
     
    snotty likes this.
  7. Another vote for the red poly jobs here. I wouldn't trust the quality of black rubber ones these days.
     

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