Looking to rebuild my steering box before refitting, any advice?

Looking to strip and rebuild. I have had a nosey at Diddy's thread BUT my box is the early one as my bus is a crossover. Does anyone have the bearing and lip seal numbers I need to order new before I embark on stripping it down only to find I can't get the spares I need? Is there anything else I'd need or should look out for?

Cheers
Lyn

 

Why rebuild? Is it notchy?
The seals are standard "rotating shaft" seals from anywhere on the net for about a fiver the two inc post. The sizes are stamped on them but I don't remember what they are. If it's notchy it can be sorted but you'll need to say or I'd be wasting my typing finger.

 

It's not notchy Zed, I have given it a little too much heat whilst removing the pitman arm and don't want to refit it with the chance of ruining the seals. Just thought that whilst it was having a service I could replace anything which is a common fix in there.

I found these sizes 24-36-7 and 25-36-7 but am not sure which model ZF box they are for. I suppose I could check with a vernier tomorrow then if correct I could order them up.
Is it worth replacing anything else in there then?
Also been reading Penrith steering box lube is the best stuff? Yes or no? Was just gonna stick some EP80-90 or whatever it's called in there.

It's the cast iron box not the alloy one.

 

I don't think there's much else you can do. If it's already off the bus you can read the size from the seals - it's printed on them. Your sizes ring a bell, but I seem to remember one being 6 deep not 7. Def worth checking.

 

Found this link hope it helps 8)

http://thelatebay.com/index.php?topic=7121.0

 

Cast iron body...early. Might be worth having a word with Zed on here. Think he's rebuilt an early steering box at some time in the past.

 

I have rebuit mine, but it was screwed so worth the gamble. Micro torque guages are required to do it properly - I just went by where the tab washer was originally and crossed my fingers. This was only needed because the peg had a flat causing a 1/4 free turn notch so I had to take the peg out to have it machined. If you don't need to do this I'd suggest you leave it be and replace the seals only.

Mine also has a lot of axial play, but I live with it because the self centring steering is very forgiving if the wheel geometry is set up correctly and your tyres aren't worn funny.

 

Is the strip down much work then Zed? Even just to check the state of play in there or once apart does it need to be correctly set up again? or is it just a case of unbolt it and bolt it back together in the same place?

 

In effect the "top" comes off and you can see inside, but if you don't have a problem, unless it's been filled with grease that you should remove, I'd leave it be personally, though no harm if you're inquisitive. It really should have gear oil on it so any muck that might be in there gets a chance to sink to the bottom out of harms way. The fitting of the two halves has no effect on it's operation as all the gubbins apart from the adjuster screw are in one half. It might be easier to fit one of the seals if you do take the top off as the arm with the peg slips out then and you could have a look.

Oh go on then, take it to bits - I know you want to and you won't get into any trouble. It's interesting in there and kind of nice to see the simple robust engineering inside.

 

i"ll give you this ZED, you got the gift of the gab! no doubt about that!. i"m almost convinced i should remove my perfectly ok box for a strip and look !

 

Well, it got the better of me, I finally buckled and opened it up. Well, I had to clean it up and fit new seals anyway (thats my excuse and I'm sticking to it).

There is no (or at least very minimal wear) on the pin and worm, so very happy about that. Seal sizes were 27-37-7 for the output shaft and 24-36-7 for the input shaft.
Just gonna order a set from Simply bearings, give it a blast and coat of fresh epoxy mastic then reassemble.







I have flushed the input bearing with plus gas to wash out some Marmitee which got in there when I was cleaning it up so would you advise I packed the bearings with grease (I have high temp marine waterproof stuff here) or would the box oil be suffice as they will be running wet anyway.

 

Oil only.

 

Super job . Said it before, but I wonder how many folk chuck their boxes out when all they need is new seals, oil and a lick of paint. They're tough old things.

 

Just got a pair of new seals from Simply Bearings at £1.89 each and delivery at £2 odds. Just over £6 all in. O0

 

I'm going to have a look at my old one I took off about a year ago. Bought the recon one from JK, I think it had been filled with grease because there was some on the outside where you fill it up, do people use grease instead of oil because its less likely to leak? It seems ok though, but I'm probably not a good judge of these things.
I never sent the old one back for the £120 deposit, it's got two sheared off bolts in it, PO must have tried to change it and gave up after two bolts sheared trying to get it off so they left it on there held on with two bolts, the whole thing was moving when you turn the steering