I've been trawling through previous posts to see what I need to insulate and sound deaden my van. I'm watching Silent Coat sound deadening on Ebay. What insulation do you use as I don't want to run the risk of too much condensation. I read on one post that there are 3 layers to put in sound deadening, thermal and insulation. Have I got this right? Excuse the many questions. I'm a complete novice at this DIY stuff so want to make sure I'm doing it properly. Thanks
Hi, I'm pitching with what little I know to get the ball rolling ... then you'll get some "sound" advice from others I expect. It's just sound and thermal ... "Insulation" covers them both Sound deadening material is a bit pricey IMHO and can be done just as well with strategic placement of pieces of relatively cheap sticky back lead flashing tape from builder's merchants ... In the case of the sliding door and opposite you don't need to cover the whole area, just the centre and maybe a few small "satelite" bits around that to stop "boom". Heat insulation should be sealed off from the inside with plastic membrane to stop moisture getting into it and sitting there rotting your bus away from the inside! That's it from me.
Hi, I used Silent Coat and Dodo matting. Silent Coat adds mass to to a panel and stops the drubbing noise. You only need to cover 25 - 40%, any more and you are just wasting money. The load floor does not need to be covered as it is ribbed that does the same thing. For sound insulation/heat, the best to use is open cell foam - it converts sound to heat. The downside is that it absorbs water and rots your panels out. The answer is to use closed cell foam. Not quite as good, but is water resistant. I used dodo thermo van liner on the walls, ceiling, tailgate, over engine (inside vehicle only) and slide door. It is self adhesive (very sticky!) and you will need to cover as much of the panel as possible. There is a 10 meter version as well. You will need to tape the edges with https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-tape https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-thermo-van-liner For the load floor I used underfloor insulation, the same that is used for under vinyl or floating wood floors. You don't want to go too thick as it may interfere with the slide door. Don't put the above on the drivers/passengers floor. It does its job well but won't take being stood on all the time. For the front floor, I used MLV or Mass Loaded Vinyl from the same company, you will need two sheets for full coverage: https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-pro-barrier-mlv Hope this helps!
The first picture shows some of the silent coat going in on the walls and the floor over the engine bay. The second shows the covering of the Dodo thermo van liner over the engine. I did do walls as well. As I was replacing the roof lining as well, I took the opportunity to do the ceiling.
How did you arrive at that combination? Did you fly solo or do research or pick other people's brains?
Picked other people's brains. The silent coat will only stop the drubbing - it does make quite a difference in its own, but adding the insulation helps as well. Deadening.co.uk have a useful guide that I followed when they did a T5. https://www.deadening.co.uk/pages/project-volkswagen-t5 Noise Killer do a similar thing: https://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/motorhome-and-van-vw-camper-kit/
Is this flashing tape the sort which is appropriate for sound deadening? https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-flashing-tape-grey-150mm-x-10m/25426
You have probably sorted this but just to back up @SkutterBob I did exactly the same. Silent coat with a pretty good covering although not 100% and then dodo mat (10m roll) did me the roof or what is left with a pop top, the sides, and the engine cover, etc. I did go for additional thicker matting on the load floor under the plywood, but this was just as it was recommended by the folks at the shop (Dodo Pro Barrier MLV and only needed 4 sheets to do the floor) Is it quiet, No. Still have to raise voices when travelling. Is it better than before. Unbelielable, yes whilst you have to raise your voice, you can hear, hear the stereo and have conversations Does it help with heat / cool - Yes, slept in it for 2 weeks in Devon and its stayed nice and cool most of the time. On colder days it was definatley warmer Not the cheapest way, but if everything is out and its a once in a 5-7 year job then probably worth it 1x Silent Coat Pro Deadening Roller for £9.99 each 1x Dodo Fixman Tape for £6.99 each 1x Dodo Thermo Van Liner 10M - Dodo Thermo Van Liner 10M for £109.99 each 4x Dodo Pro Barrier MLV for £24.99 each 1x Silent Coat 2mm Mat Bulk for £79.99 each i had about 4 meters of the thermo liner left and about 2 sheets of silentcoat, although did not do front bulkhead, if it helps
I seen loft insulation used it speeds the rusting process up not that a type 2 needs much help I was going to use a foil roll from wicks
I used flashing tape and silent coat in 2 of my beetles and I couldn’t tell the difference between the two. As others have said you just need enough to dampen the panel. I then followed this with fire proof acoustic foam which was self adhesive and cut this to shape to cover the floor pans and round all the arches etc. This made a massive difference to the noise and temperature cost about £100 to do a bug and I covered everything under the carpets and behind panels (except the doors). It didn’t add much weight, was fire proof and didn’t retain moisture which is important. It was also a lot cheaper than the branded stuff silent coat dyna mat etc
hi ok ive got two rolls of foil and some deadening matting i bought ages ago. It feels like the matting has lead in it. Do i put the lead over the foil or just don't foil where the deadening stuff goes?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111747874225 this is the roll i bought. no idea why its twice the price i paid but im not grumbling. left it outside too so they sent me another for free. so ive ended up with 20 metres x 1 metre of the stuff.im thinking of putting the foil behind the back seat all the sides, roof and doors . the deadening matting i think would go cargo / cab floors and over the engine. the big question is do i foil and then put matting or just matting over the engine? just want to check. deadening stuff was from manchester https://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/noisekiller-adhesive-sound-barrier-material/ which is cut for cargo and cab floors and above the engine.
Deadening (silent coat etc) needs to have complete contact with the metal panels to take the resonance out (rollered on with little warmth from hairdryer) then you mass loaded vinyl on top but only on horizontal areas (above engine bay). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I used silent coat to deaden the resonance of panels and a wallpaper seam roller to ensure most surface area contact. Less contact, less effective!
