Indicator stem just broke

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by stewart kombi, Dec 17, 2017.

  1. aw crap. With the cooler Christmas driving season upon us the indicator switch has failed. It doesn't indicate right, does left but wierd action, and only clicks on and off for hazards. Something has gone in the mechanical bit. Happened after flashing lights to a black beetle this morning. Typical.

    Never had any issues with the indicator switch parts somdont know about it. Got a long drive to Wales and back coming up after Xmas. How hard is it to sort it. Can't just go left all the time, I'll get nowhere.
     
  2. If it's a later Bay, reasonably hassle-free. Disconnect battery -ve, prise out centre cap on wheel, steering wheel off. Reach under shroud, pull off two wiring connectors. Disconnect washer pipe, undo screws and pull out both switch assemblies. Separate them, fit new switch, whole lot back in. A chore, but not that bad.
     
  3. Sounds OK, yes it's a late bay 1974 . Never took off a steering wheel. Is that just undoing a big nut holding it on? Risk is I start something small, and end up not having a steering wheel working, which is a show stopper.

    need to ge ahead of things because Christmas shutdown looming , so ill get it ordered today is the switch a common part?
     
  4. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Take care - a 1974 year model late bay bus may still contain early model 1973 parts like my bus registered 'N' March 1975 was built October 1973 but with an early steering column.

    The older steering column you do not need the wheel off, you can undo two cross head screws clamping the switches to the column and get at the switch in seconds. Which is as far as you will get as this type is made from unobtanium. My corresponding broken windscreen wiper switch is held together with a cable tie, and has been for 7 years.

    Another clue is if you undo the nut (27mm) and you can wiggle the steering wheel off by rocking it from side to side and lifting by hand, it is one of the straight taper spline later steering wheels that will go with the stil obtainable switches.
    If the steering wheel stays on and needs a puller its more likely to be one of the earlier tapered spline ones. In which case theres no point in getting it off for anything unless you check e.g. FBI VW for used stock.
     
  5. You've got the slim plastic stalks, yes? The two switches (indicators and wipers) kind of fit together in one assembly. I'll try and find a pic. As far as I'm aware, folk still sell OEM indicator switches (not wiper switches, unfortunately).

    Advantage of a later Bay is that the steering wheel isn't on a taper: it's just straight splines, so much easier to pull off once you've undone the nut. It's all hassle, but straightforward enough to do :thumbsup:.
     
  6. The two switches together, when they're off...

    a stalk switches 6s.jpg
     
  7. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    You have the metal ones and the VWH link is the correct replacement.
    When you try to remove the steering wheel back off the nut but don’t remove it completely – you’ll probably need to give the wheel a good hard tug to get it to move but once it does if the nut doesn’t stop it flying off your face will.
    Does your horn work? There is too much clearance between the wheel and the horn contact.
     
    andyv and snotty like this.
  8. ^all of this.

    How good the new ones are depends on VWH's definition of "Good Quality" ;). As Westy says, bet your horn doesn't work and your indicators don't self-cancel. You can solve it by removing the bolt holding the switch casting on and tapping it up further towards the wheel. When you're taking the wheel off, just prise out the black centre cap - the silver bit is part of the steering wheel.
     
  9. Sounds not too bad (famous last words). The horn works but I've never heard of self cancelling indicators? Whatever will they think of next!

    Is it possible to fix the original stuff in their, to keep the metal lever?
     
  10. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    The new lever is metal.
     
    snotty likes this.
  11. :thumbsup:
     
    stewart kombi likes this.
  12. Will,see if I can switch the lever in the new one for the old one. I'll keep it regardless, keep all the old stuff. It's better even if it doesn't work
     
  13. The arm's part of the switch assembly, unfortunately :(
     
  14. If you can get a working second hand one.

    I went through three 'high quality' ones one the beetle, each was rubbish (my least favorite was the one that caught fire as the terminals on the back were too long and shorted on the column).

    Mr Davidoft (or your favorite breaker emporium) will sell you one that will definitely last longer and will probably be similarly priced....
     
    snotty likes this.
  15. I'd rather get one from davidoft..pm on its way!
     
    orangefeeling likes this.
  16. OK! It's just gone critical and it's now stuck on right indicator all the time. I have to do this in the next week, always happens at Christmas, prior to my The cold new year family jaunt to west Wales. BAlls

    Got the VWH one on its way. Need to figure out removing the wheel. Plastic button came off easy, but I don't have a socket for the nut. Anybody know what size it is??....I'll try to buy a single one somewhere , Halfords?

    Is it lefty loosy?
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2017
    orangefeeling likes this.
  17. Halfords will sell you a single socket: measure across the flats. 24mm, something like that?

    Nuts conventionally undo anticlockwise ;). Do it up to about 30 lb/ft, doesn't have to be super tight.
     
    stewart kombi likes this.
  18. PS It is quite straightforward once you get stuck in. Go for it!
     
  19. indeed 24 mm:thumbsup:
     
    snotty likes this.

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