Can someone please point out the idle screw... I think It needs to be a bit faster. Sent from my MAR-LX1A using Tapatalk
Check your timing first. Otherwise... There are two ways to adjust idle speed up. 1) More idle timing advance, but you must be aware of the effect that will have on your full advance which is difficult to adjust with a stock type distributor but easy with a programmable one. This in fact the best way, but often not practical. 2) open the throttle more with the throttle stops. Either way will work but if you open the throttle stops too much it becomes more difficult to set your idle mixture as you will be bringing the lowest progession hole into play. The third way is sit patiently until your engine is properly warmed up in the winter or fit a bigger idle jet that will perform better for a cold engine and in all honesty for a bus that will rarely be actually running on the idle jets it doesn't make a lot of difference if the idles are technically "a bit big". I'm half serious here - it's a balance as always. My bus runs great on tiny idles but will not start in the winter so I have bigger ones fitted to be practical.
Check the timing first as Zed says. If it’s correct just adjust the throttle stop screw slightly. But why do you think it needs to idle faster?
The progressive carburettor has two idle screws. When the choke is set, the idle screw that rides on the stepped cam to control idle speed is round the back under the choke capsule. Its linked to the main spindle via the bit of wiggly wire coming over from a lever that pops up above the end of the throttle spindle when the choke is cold and you blip the throttle. Screw location roughly shown in green.. When my choke linkage got a bit loose, it allowed the screw to sometimes 'fall' off the wrong end of the stepped cam and cause inconsistent "stopped" or "adequate" cold idle. Once the choke comes off, the idle screw that controls idle speed is arrowed in red. It has maybe 1/8 turn between too fast and stopped. Both of them are a total pig to get at. The cold idle screw is only really accessible with the carburettor taken off, but in general, if it sits on the cam it will definitely idle faster... And your linkage in that picture is en-route to destroying the spindle bushings, by pulling sideways on the spindle, and never allowing WOT. With a progressive you do a) have a choke. b) have a progressive reducing cold fast idle system. These are about the only two really good features that differentiate it from other aftermarket carburettor solutions, where chokes are always deleted because Californians.
Because, even after 45mins drive, when I come to traffic light it'll die unless I blip the accelerator.
And your linkage in that picture is en-route to destroying the spindle bushings, by pulling sideways on the spindle, and never allowing WOT What do I do about it?
Basically an improved linkage that keeps the pull at WOT against the spring round the shaft more than pulling the shaft down hard : Near the bottom of this page. https://www.thelatebay.com/index.ph...eber-dfav-32-36-carburettor-work.19121/page-2 Showing my current variation - ball bearing race replaced by brass tube bearing.. Note also the air box feeding from a stock air cleaner with hot air feed.
