Have you ever done this before or are you a complete beginner. If the latter, how fit are you Malc? If 'not very fit' I'd advise to shape up first. It's tough work.
I was ok .learned at bude in 72 last surfed kilkhamton on a short board 2007.your righ at its hard work. Woody your mountain board will sink silly ! .
oooooooh thats a lovely break, would be awesome for my 7'4" retro fun board, even nicer hot doggin on my 9' 10"