I give up! - advice on who can help - oil everywhere post rebuild

Hopefully you are right mike. I willget a meter on the pump feed tonight and check whats happening.
Thanks.

 

If you have a Facet cube style pump these will change pitch if the fuel lines get vapour lock, this seems more likely to happen at low fuel flow levels (when idling, or in traffic), everything seems to get hotter, than high flow when romping along.

 

The fact its quiet enough and smooth enough to let you hear the pump is a good sign.

Another reason for wiring the Facet pump off the battery more directly is that in some cases the pulsing of the pump modulates the voltage off the coil +ve and that changes the timing of the "adaptive dwell" electronic ignition module, and you get slight shuddering of the engine at certain engine loads.

 

Thanks Mike, wiring change to ignition only triggered is done. The pump is way louder now than it was engine running at speed or not. I suspect my coil feed is not great at all. Something else maybe to look at. Oh dear.
I also pumped some oil through the oil cooler/filter lines using a push syphon pump i had for draining my van diesel fuel tank to flush anything in there- it seemed to work well and helped prime the cooler, did a filter change and have connected some AN pipe adapters to the end of some barbed tails to connect to the original oil lines. They seem to good and hopefully provide a more reliable connection than barbed- seems to be leak free. Will have another spin out tomorrow to check it all.
P.s. sorry snotty i know i should maybe not have bothered with the cooler but to just put the filter in the circuit would have meant a load of faffing under the van reworking pipe runs...

 

I have another problem on the never ending saga. I seem to be getting a vapour lock type problem once its been running for a while, it happened at the tuning place and has happened again on a test drive whereby if i am stationary for a time it starts to run rough. Does anyone else have experience of similar probs and know best route for fuel lines? I have mine clipped to the roof of the engine bay from the malpasi, then a centre t toveach carb. Wondering if i should run lines to rear of fan shroud instead where its maybe cooler...plus silver tape the lines some say?

 

Never had such a problem and have had fuel lines all over the place... But never up quite that high. It doesn't get hot enough up there to cause a heat problem though so I'm not convinced by that theory.

 

Any thoughts on what else it could be zedders? It only happens when its been standing for a while after a drive. When i was at the tuning place the guy put a big fan on the engine bay for ten mins, took a hose off to let it drain out a bit then back on and it was then fine. Yesterday though it did it to me again after a drive and 15 min stop.
I also have a concern over the floats, i did mention to the tune up guy. He said it was fine as i think it would have showed in the tuning if there was a prob, but it does seem to be eating fuel on first impressions- might be the guage not reading linear as was replaced...just not sure.

 

There's your clue, ignore the big fan, nobody runs one of those apart from on a rolling road! Maybe run your hoses lower.

 

If the pipes on the roof of the engine bay it will be higher then the tank so any air will go to that point and likely to course a air lock

 

Thanks, will try a re route on the pipes.

 

You really, really should check the float heights, and they should have been checked before the tuning session. All you need is a screwdriver, something to measure 10mm (a drill for instance) and some time. No special tools or parts required.

 

Will i need a new gasket though- i dont have a set...?

 

Not if you’re careful but if you need new ones they’re 'only' £8.99. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Weber-40...9nOxMcWT_9GP7IUehh2Ti8fxAfkrWsWRoCD6EQAvD_BwE

 

So, i re routed the hoses but its still stumbling and not running right even cold- feels like its missing but wont clear through and get going. J just checked timing hadnt slipped - all ok. Judt about to check valves.
The mare continues. Its getting boring!

 

I’ll say it again - check the float heights. The carbs are too big for the engine capacity and they need all the help they can get to work well, especially at low revs/load. And while you’re looking at them tell us the venturi size – they’re probably 28 but it would be better if they were 26.

 

Thanks westy. I have succumbed and will do that. Just re checked valves and timing - all ok so i will. Bit gutted as i did say about floats to the tuning guy and i think he thought it was ok. Still what you say makes perfect sense and i agree that i might have a needle sticking open which i guess will make it run Marmite through overfuelling at low rpms and be the bad fuel consumption. I was loathe to touch the carbs as i have no experience on them and they have just been setup but there we are its done. Would you recommend i get a service kit for both carbs while i am doing this, and thanks.

 

Tuning guy thinking it's ok is not good enough, your symptoms tend to say otherwise. The float effects everything, not just fuel spilling down the throat if too low, but incorrect response at all times.

If they are like dells, as you take the top off the gasket stays with the top or will tear.

 

If you are careful (and a bit lucky) you can strip the carb, check the float height and check the jets are clean without needing a service kit but pay particular attention to the float needle valves, they do wear out – you’ll see a groove in the pointy bit. Post a close up pic if you’re not sure.

 

Indeed, I've had mine apart many times without replacing the gasket, just be careful.

 

You're not going to change anything in the "setup" (whatever he's done) by taking the top off the carb and adjusting the float level.