I dont like Genolite

And I'm going to tackle a bit of bubbling paintwork /rust. Found these two in the shed. They seem ok so was wondering which (if either) I should use once I've rubbed it back. That is of course if it doesnt turn out to need a piece of new metal welding in.
Cheers
P.

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Ive used Krust, I gave it a few coats until it was a good looking black colour.

 

Rust remover first, clean it up then use the Kurust, then key that up before putting any paint coating on top, as the kurust forms a slightly waxy barrier.

 

Nice. Thanks very much.
Won’t do it today as it is damp out there. Cheers again.
P.

 

They're likely both the same stuff: phosphoric acid.

 

I've had more success with rust removers than rust converters. In my experience, getting all the rust off with phosphoric or citric acid and wire wool to get to clean steel and then painting with zinc rich primer works better than using rust converters. The last time I used one of those I got a nice black coating and I put primer over it. Then, a few weeks later, I chipped a bit and the whole lot came flaking off and I was left with a rusty surface under it all. Maybe I did it all wrong?

 

So it turned out to be a bit of rot on the bottom rear corner that had a bit of filler in it. I ground it all back and treated it. 45 years of marmite came out. Made a plate for the inside skin and started welding. My welder is being a pain. The wire keeps clogging in the torch and I have to keep cutting it pulling it through and re feeding it. What could be the problem do you think?
The tip and the other bit on the the end of the torch don’t seem clogged. Do they just need changing.
Packed up for the day and going for a pint a bit peed off.

 

Could need a new tip on the torch and/or a new liner

 

Go get a man hug .... preferably with a mask


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Probably too slow on the wire feed and/or too low on the power ??

Change the tip and check the wire feed first though ...

 

Rusty welding wire, maybe need new liner for the torch. Some cheaper welders cant get enough pressure on the roller to drive the wire through. But you are only meant to do up the roller pressure until you can stop the wire with a bit of pressure from your fingers as it comes out of the torch.
Another one is if the wire ever birds nested on the reel, when you let go of the end and it ran away, the wire will sometimes feed normally for a few feet then jam as it finally gets to a bit where you are trying to pull it from under another layer.
Changing the liner on a cheap welder will explain why people buy Euro torches which can be removed from the welder and have easily replaceable liners. Its not impossible but you have to dismantle things more completely to get it out and a new one back in.

A trick I have done is to hang a piece of cloth which is wetted with 3-in-1 oil over the wire as it goes into the rollers in the welder, to just provide a tiny bit of extra lubrication.

 

Coroded wire.
Worn liner.

 

Worn torch.
Pitted wire.
Incorrectly adjusted roller or roller grooves are dirty.

 

Thank you everyone.
Rusted wire is quite probable as it’s been in the shed for a long time. But it looked ok. I have a Sealy Mighty mig 170 with a Euro torch so I will get it checked out if new wire, new tip and a new “the other metal bit thingy at the end’ doesn’t cure it. I’ll look at the rollers too, give em a wiggle and a clean up.
Would rusty/ Corroded wire be obvious to the eye?

p.

 

Instead of being glossy and smooth , it will be more dull with green-grey stains.

 

Look at the reel, pull a load off. Is it shiny under the first layers?

 

Its most likely corrosion in the liner, which is the Bowden cable outer that the welding wire is fed through, as the welder is a decent one. My old welder I bought at a farm show as an ex-demo model had been at the mercy of the weather for some time and the liner was not good. Also somebody had turned the wire speed up to 11 so I had to replace the speed control potentiometer.

Wire should be nicely copper plated and shiny. I have one reel that got rained on. Dont know why I keep it - it has splodges of corrosion on it.

The tip - the copper bit usually is OK until when it gets very melted then it will stop wire moving.
The shroud fills up with spatter until it shorts to the tip then it gets exciting...

 

So it turns out that after a lot of birds nesting and farting about, that I had clamped down the wire too hard. The slightest bum weld or resistance at the hot end was causing this. So I backed it right off so that it was just able to move the reel when I pulled the trigger. Seems ok now and job done. Although it seems a bit weird that I can’t clamp the wire down a little more than I am doing without it birds nesting at the drop of a hat. At least I am at F1 pit crew speed when it comes to loading wire now!
Got to get one of those finger grinder thingies now to get to those welds which I can’t seem to get to with my grinder and a flap disc. Looking forward to getting my upol fantastic tub open, which Halfords do now btw.

Thank you everyone.

p.

 

Birdsnesting in the feed rollers can be reduced by adjusting the liner so that it almost touches the feed roller where the wire goes into the liner. There should be some screws that clamp the liner that can be loosened to adjust it.

Still from the description it is behaving like there is a lot of friction there- probably the liner could be replaced and it would help.

 

Thanks Mike. I think you might be right.
P.