I’m thinking of moving to the dark side

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by Ian Jones, Sep 1, 2020.

  1. There`s many on here must lead a charmed life then ! Having owned and driven the same van for 27 :)eek:) years i can safely say it`s all down knowing their limitations and planning ahead - yes , it`s challenging and i must admit after 8 hours driving i`m knackered but that`s the character and i accept that . I`m not knocking scoobies , i think they`re a sweet modification and WHEN i need a new engine i`d probably go down that route but they`re obviously a different kettle of fish to drive - as @MorkC68 says , he`s looking forwards to a new experience :thumbsup:

    One thing i`ve never done and wouldn`t really want to is tow a caravan with a T2 , scoobie or not :eek:

    :hattip:
     
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  2. Moons

    Moons Moderator

    I'll tip my hat to your experience, I average around 25,000 miles a year in modern cars so I'll admit there is a difference in perception.

    I fixed what I hated, you kept what you enjoy - everyone's happy!

    I'm a huge fan of classic cars - much much more so that I am old VW vans - if they can be modified subtly to make them more usable (one mans subtle is another's tearing the heart out of it) in modern traffic.

    Did you know that there is nearly 25% more cars on the roads in those 27 years. Blimey.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2020
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  3. Still can't get my head around why this isn't a more popular engine swop..more modern engine and VW have already done it....you suggest it makes driving it a more pleasurable experience...it's not all about speed.
     
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  4. Moons

    Moons Moderator

    Is the 1.4l the same block as the 1.8T in the GTI?

    I think we both know you'd be happier with 180bhp.

    Just saying.
     
    Purple likes this.
  5. Exactly , it`s not about the obvious 0-60 hike , i`d be looking at more torque , improved passing capabilities and better drivability - I`d probably still sit at 55-60 anyways ...:rolleyes:

    If i want to get somewhere quickly i`ll jump in the car - simples :thumbsup:

    :hattip:
     
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  6. I dont know, but they both have ECUs so opens up options for mapping I suppose. The weak link feels to be the original 4 speed gearbox its coupled to. The engine is happy to rev but the gearbox sounds suicidal.

    You are right, I would love the brut power availability of a conversion - it would be a consideration had I not lumbered myself with the Brazzers and their tax and MOT legacies for another few decades.
     
    Lasty likes this.
  7. It goes surprisingly well and sits at 70mph, but its overtaking traffic that @Moons
    mentioned is the biggest difference as it pulls well from 55 to 70.
     
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  8. Looking at the fellows exhaust it looks massive how have you got on with your towbar @pkrboo any issues ?
     
  9. I had a fellows style one but I now have a new one that I helped design which is more like a standard type 4 one. Silencer across the back, nice and quiet. No towbar issues with either. And tucks up as high as possible

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2020
  10. bernjb56

    bernjb56 Administrator

    I’ve got the Fellows one on mine - no problem with the towbar, but it does sit low.
     
  11. Hi Ian,

    little annoying threads become hijacked. The original thread was about costs not MOTs.

    Based on what I paid.

    My engine and modified loom delivered was £650 I got a 94/95 with about 90,000 on it. Get the lowest mileage you can. So £300 engine/£350 loom modified. In hindsight a slightly later engine would have had OBD and might have been easier to live with but it was all that was available at the time and was a good engine for a good price. I would ask on here and 110% ask @pkrboo who seems to have a collection of Suby engines.
    Rad pack and bits I think was £550 from RJES
    Then you need adaptor plate and some other ancillaries (can't be more specific as it depends which route you take i.e I had an auto 003 box and changed to an 010/090 auto box) but incl throttle body reverser budget say £1500 (incl coolant bottle/pipes and ). I got most bits from RJES
    My exhaust cost appx £550 took it to a exhaust garage and had it made.
    I bought a shortened sump for almost £300 from Nick Tune which was suppose to have £50 back. (I'm still owed £50 back on that from Nick Tune I just remembered).
    So appx £3550 total.

    I looked carefully at the costs to rebuild my 1800 upright 'properly' to a 2.0l with new heads, cam etc, using half decent parts and trying to get more oomph out of the engine but you are still working with a very old design and 80bhp max. I looked at a 'new' old engine but I found it was about the same cost before I factored in shortened sump and exhaust (as I didn't think about those things at the time) but it is still ball park same costs to 'upgrade' to a subaru and 120bhp. If you plan on keeping the bus I'd say it is well worth it, the driving experience is really so much smoother. I originally had a 1800 FI engine on a 75 auto.

    JK sell original replacement 2.0l for appx £3000
    TSR do engine swaps to suby for £5640
    DIY suby £3550

    There will always be little bits and pieces but nothing that hasn't already been done. The @pkrboo thread that I jumped in on with my build is a good record of what's involved and includes coolant diagrams etc.

    I don't regret doing it at all. I lost kickdown in my first assembly but I might have got it back since I stripped my box and rebuilt my throttle cable and replaced the gearbox arms and lever but I've not had a decent opportunity to test drive.

    As for engine choices, I wanted economy above everything as I remember the first time I got my bus on the road with the old engine, all nice, shiny and restored went to a Volksworld show I think. I got home and calculated my mpg... it was 17mpg, bit of a shock! so getting the most economical route has always been my thing. A 2.0l is powerful enough and not quite as thirsty as a 2.5 or 3.0l which would be sexy. If I had the chance to put in a 2.5 I might consider it but I don't know if i want the hassle of swapping over. pkrboo has one so he'll tell you but I think a 2.0 normally aspirated (n/a) is the norm and very capable.

    Good luck with it, the Subaru EJ boxer engines are a perfect fit.

    PG
     
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  12. I am also looking into a diy conversion
    But intend to make my engine support bar and my own rad pack and exhaust (temp get through mot type) which should shave a good amount of the cost plus the sale type4 will also reduce costs
     
    Dubs likes this.
  13. That really helpful info many thanks just got to start buying stuff now.
     
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