HELP - engine running VERY hot

I doubt that the oil would reach 'almost boiling temperature' after a few minutes at idle, if it was just fan cooling/thermostat related....as previously suggested, it would be far better to remove the engine, so you can get to grips with how everything should go together....check that the oil cooler and the oil breather aren't blocked, the ignition timing is correct, the exhaust valve clearances aren't too small....then suss out why it's overheating
http://www.vw-resource.com/overheating.html

 

@snotty - no, the flat piece is not in place.

@vanorak - it seems ok at idle - it seems to be when you drive at higher speeds that the problems arise

@Spacecowboyuk - haven't looked for a second one as @zed suggested I should be looking at the one nearest the rear of the bus (which I assume is the one by the oil pump).

I have checked the screws on the carbs to see how many turns they are screwed out - I assume the screws to look for are on the front of the carb on the bottom right with a spring on them - they screwed in 3.5 turns, so they were both screwed out 3.5 turns - mate suggests they should be around 2.5 turns out, so perhaps they are set a bit lean? Should I turn them all the way in then out by 2.5 complete revolutions?

Same mate also turned up in his bus which is running like a dream so that pi$$ed me off as mine is stuck in the garage!

 

Well, that's likely your answer then, or at least a large part of it. If the air dam between the cylinders isn't there, cooling air just shoots down and out the back, without circulating round the cylinders. With the plate missing, the cylinders on that side won't be cooled to any great extent.

To put one on, you'll to drop the engine anyway, so...engine out! Couple of hours work, tops, and you can check everything else is in place while it's out. No real alternative, fella...

 

After three everybody....1,2,3 Take the engine out!

 

think you can get the idea that I didn;t really want to take the engine out unless I really have to. can't check the timing with the engine out and I haven't really got the space in my garage to get the bus high enough and get enough room at the back to get the engine out.

Didn;t fancy doing it on the drive.

curses.

 

Enlightenment will dawn soon enough ...

If the engine really has got that hot, you'd need check for stuff like pulled head studs as well.

 

You can check the timing statically with the engine out and not running. You don't need strobe.

There's nothing can fix with engine in.

 

Wasn't taking the p*ss Grub.....I understand your reluctance, especially if it seems impracatical, but at the end of the day, if you've had ongoing issues with overheating, and you've spent time and money without resolving it, the easiest option is to pull the motor, go through everything you need to, and take the opportunity to check tank breathers, fuel hose, fuel tank sender, do a general tidy up, fit some soundproofing where it really makes a difference (tank compartment) and maybe even a repaint.....you'll be pleased you did, in the long run....it's a right of passge for all DIY aircooled owners....
Plenty of help along the way, on here

 

Sorry, you should check the other one too. The other is to maintain pressure at the bearings by releiving the pressure in the oilways to the bearings when it gets too high. This also helps to keep a good flow of oil around the engine, more than the bearings need. If blocked, the pressure will increase, forcing open the one you checked and again same result - oil will be allowed to bypass the cooler.

You're right IMO to check all you can while the engine is in the van. If you can find a cause, even if your engine is damaged, you'd be able to prevent it happening to it's replacement.

 

a good point well made Sir!

 

Get a room, guys....

 

I do all my work on the drive and if u never took it out I read up on it so many books and then it's a piece of cake iv got a type 4 engine and I can get it out in half hour now on my drive ,1 hour to put back in ,

 

Thanks for the kind offer @Mork68, but by the time I've given you some money for them & paid the postage I could probably pop down to GSF & buy a pair - I think they are probably only a few quid. I would also need to take the engine out & the heads off to fit them.

I'll re-evaluate what I am going to do engine wise & if I need them, i'll possibly give you a shout when we've got more time.

thanks for the kind offer though.

 

Were r u @grub me and @Spacecowboyuk are in droitwich if we can lend a hand getting it out ect I'm more type 4 injuns but roger knows a bit and I'm good with the spanners and bus is full of tools ect !! Just some support if u struggle !

 

He's in Solihull

 

Thanks for all the kind offers guys - may well be taking some of you up on them!

Richened the carbs up a little (2.5 turns out rather than the 3.5 turns they were out - does this sound about right as a starting point - I haven;t got the tools to set them up correctly).

Removed 1 shim to tighten the belt up a smidge (not too tight though).

Run it up on the drive at tickover yesterday, with the odd rev and the left hand side was notciably starting to get hotter then the right, so gonna replace the lower tinware that's missing on that side.

Don;t suppose there is any way I can get the flat tinware between the barrells and pushrod tubes in in-situ?

Gonna check the timing at full advance.

Then will give it another run and see how we get on.

One other thing - there seems to be a lot of oil around the area where the oil cooler is situated - could it be possible that it's been leaking over time, the cooler's all covered in oil, and it's restricting it's ability to cool the oil (like the cooling vanes are coated in oil)?

Thanks

 

No chance of getting the tin in place without removing pushrods and all that that entails. If this is missing, have no confidence whatsoever in anything else about your engine, it sounds like something that "ran" in order to sell the bus.
Oil cooler is high pressure, if it was leaking it would be peeing out. When they or the seals leak you'll likely see oil being blown from under the fan housing onto the LHS of the top of the crankcase, or from the doghouse tinware, even at tickover. drip, drip, drip...

Have you done the in situ pulley pull/push test for endfloat? If it's bad you're on borrowed time anyway and the better you can make your engine perform, the hastier will be it's demise.

On that cheery note I'm orf to weld a Splitty.