Are the heater cables from cab levers to the pods at rear different lengths ..Type 4 ? ...one is slack and other don't reach . Have a feeling i have fitted wrong way round .
I think I'm in the same boat as the right hand one is slightly too short. Cool Air lists a number of variants and gives the actual lengths. They vary between left and right and RHD and LHD.
I think I must have been supplied with the wrong item. It fits but the cable won't push back far enough to turn off the rh pod, so I was roasting in summer. It's disconnected at present but I'm disinclined to get the correct length cable and go through all that pain up front behind the dash. I'll probably just cobble up a short extension at the back.
Likewise buddy ...think i will tie a knot in the one that is to long ....there is a lot of slack the other side on the linkage so will bend it forward just to get the cable end in . I swapped them round but were still wrong ...so placed them back . I hate working underneath the dash on a bay ...bloody awful , makes you want to take the steering wheel off and both seats ..gearstick off even then its awkward . And after all that when its working the cab smells like the start of a stock car race ...think i will buy a special bay owners ultra thick wax coat .
Can't think why a left hooker should be different as they are both central from the start ..or are they not ?
They are super difficult to set up correctly so they do open and close . Set them up roughly and then ask someone who listens (not the wife ) to operate them while you are at the rear pods monitoring what is happening ,rather than going back and forth and getting nowhere .I spend hours getting them right and would not want to go through the process again.Careful about the routing and be carefully not to kink the new cable .
Life was good when I had the prototype bay. It had a deluxe windscreen seal with a chrome insert which made it super easy to take out the windscreen and then off with the dash top to get at all the under dash stuff at a pleasant height from above.
Yes I’d have thought that too but CoolAir is quoting for example RHD left 4280mm, but LHD left 4100 mm. Further research needed.
Perhaps this will help explain the different lengths. I believe the conduits are the same for LH/RH drive but the dash position is different, then there's T1 and T4 engines doubling the variations.
Also ...mine was originally installed with a 16.00 then a type 4 later in life ...so did wonder if that was the reason why it's not right . So might tie a knot on the side that is to long and try and bend the attachment lever forward on the side which is to short ...it is minimal or even soldering an extension .
Take care messing with levers on heat exchangers. They are connected to very thin breakable tin mechanisms inside the heat exchangers at least on the T1 variation. A lot of faff and precision welding needed to repair them when you haul on the lever. Better off hacking or extending the cheaper to buy cables.
They are only slightly out...even just heating up the lever on the pod and bending it forward would do then connect the cable end to the barrel clamp . Tying a knot the other side would possibly work where it is to long . If i bought another set of cables they could be wrong too ...so i am reluctant to do that at this stage . To be honest the end system on these type 4 pods are very basic ...that said what other way is there ? Well water cooled is the way they went .
First time you want to take the engine out the clamp bolts will shear off so you'll cut the cable and reconnect with a choc block anyway so I wouldn't worry to much about butchering it to get it working. Just extend the short one with any old bit of cable but make sure when you pull on it with the lever it has enough travel before the cho block hits the conduit. Also far easier to adjust with a choc block than those silly clamp things. BTW have you got the amazing collection of little pieces that fit on the end of the conduit?
Yes Steve . A little white hard plastic grommit which pushes into the conduit ( when renewing the cables 14 years ago , it took me ages to realise that they were holding back pulling the old cables through ) ...The white plastic bit that pushes into that C shaped bracket and of coarse the rubber Boot . There is a very small rubber O ring which i have never figured out where it is supposed to go . I think i have sorted it now just need Caroline to operate the levers whilst i view the pods opening correctly .
The technique I use is to pull the lever down hard on the dash then move the levers at the rear so the heater flaps at the back are fully in the hot position then do up the bullet clamp to grip the ferrule or the wire or whatever is necessary to get the hot position.
Found this pic yesterday so I thought I’d add it in here as it may help others I remember in the past someone was on about 3d printing some of the parts.
