I've heard the fuel gauge should either work or not. Has anyone come across a part timer before ? She's a 78 Westy, brown and proud.
Mine used to work intermittently until I replaced the sender in the tank. Now 100% reliable but reads 7/8 when it's full.
Ditto intermittent sender until replaced with one that reads 100% of the time but shows 25% full with half a tank.
Mine lies a lot. Never ever reaches full! Sometimes runs out with 1/4 tank, sometimes goes all the way to empty. I've just got used to writing down the lineage when I fill up.
Worn sender or dodgy connection thereto, or dodgy connection behind the dash. When does it stop working? They should work all the time
no but it's not a doddle either.... mark out a square on the cargo deck, above the sender, use a 12mm hole saw to drill the corners, use a jigsaw with a short blade to cut the aperture....go easy and you'll end up with a neat hole... take the piece of deck you've removed and a cut a square of 1.5mm Ali plate, about an inch bigger all round...form the Ali over the corrugations....the Ali plate can now used to cover the hole....hold it in place with silicone/seam sealer/whatever.... Ask @Almag nicely, and he'll probably tell you the measurements of where to cut....
If you are buying a new sender, be sure to shop around. The price varies a great deal. £63 at JK up to £80 elsewhere.
I've got a bit of a (-ve) thing about these flaps. If you have a T1 engine which are easy to remove and install and lightweight, I'd do the job properly. This will also enable you to give the filler pipe and breathers the once over and allow you to get right in the engine bay, see what's what and spruce it up a bit at a minimum. When I took my first bus engine (1700 T4) out to do this it was out for a month while I had the chassis welded and replaced all the holed and rusty tin on the engine, painted the engine bay and other stuff. I wasn't aware any of this needed doing beforehand. I've probably just talked you into making a flap haven't I?
(-ve) @zed Agree with zed. Personally I wouldn't risk making a flap with the tank in place. I'm sure the risk of explosion is minimal, but you never know. If your breather connections and filler neck hose are perished there could be quite a bit of vapour in there. Which is a good reason to do it properly, and you can check your fuel lines and connections at the same time.
Yes Im considering it but no mechanical experience, however have one or two people about who have done it before to help out hopefully can it be out and back in in a weekend
^^^lovely job, but same result can be achieved without the need for additional work....it's not load bearing
I've done the job and it's simple enough but not "eyes closed " easy. Lots of room under the tin for the jog saw blade (that's what I was worried about). You can also weld or rivet four corner tabs, predrill starter holes in them and the corners of the hole, and replace tin "door" and hold in place with the screws on each corner. YES, have it big enough to check the rubber connections on the breather pipes as well.
