Thinking aloud, last year when we had a bit of heat I was finding that I was having to manage the oil temperature quite a bit I had checked all the valves and timing etc. Is there any real benefit to having a external oil cooler on a 1600 TP with Webber ict’s or just moving the problem.
It's my understanding that external oil coolers are geared more at engines that have been 'breathed' on for performance. Standard engines shouldn't really need an external oil cooler provided that they have the correct grade and quantity of oil. There is an argument that additional gauges merely add worry. Also, how confident are you that your oil temperature gauge is 100% accurate? Have you ever measured the temperature of the oil compared to what the gauge is showing? I'm sure that more qualified folks will share their thoughts on this topic later.
Slow down? You might eek out a few mph to top speed but already you were/are driving to the max cooling limit which some would say is inadvisable.
What were your oil temps, @matty ? As Zed says, a type 1 will romp along, but will reach a point where it just can't get rid of the heat.
I tend to let it go to a max of 120deg C and normally just happy pottering alone. I think last year there was something else going on that I need to get to the bottom of I was just wondering if it would help.
I fitted an 8 row external oil cooler in a passive air scoop arrangement to my Vege 1641 engine with a progressive carburettor and a single quiet pack because it always ran with high oil temperatures, 122 degrees usually. (I dont know what the head temperatures were like, but probably in the 150 degrees plus for the bulk of the head, which is head-cracking hot. ) The oil cooler dropped the oil temperatures about 10-15 degrees on average. In fact what was wrong was that the oil control valves were sticking in the engine block. When I fitted a new engine as in mostly new parts, it ran about the same amount cooler, 10-15 degrees, using the same carburettor, jetting and exhaust, dropping to the point where it didnt really need the cooler. But as it was sitting there fitted in the bus, and all I had to do was swap the oil pump over to bring it on line, I did so. The real advantage of fitting the cooler is that I also fitted a full flow oil filter, and that catches stuff that would otherwise be filling up the oil galleries and causing bearings to be worn. BUT the cylinder heads are only partly cooled by the oil, and if these get hot then the engine dies, even with the oil temperature gauge sitting at about 95 degrees C, with the oil cooler making it seem like things arent hot. While the Cylinder Head Temperature gauges are going wild. The T1 cooling system is not able to keep up with any more than lets say about 63 mph constant speed, if your engine can do it. This is regardless of engine capacity. The waste heat from the power output needed to push the bus along overwhelms the cooling. Its relatively hard to fry a totally stock engine, but as I have demonstrated, even increasing to 1641 and a few flow improving tweaks and determined driving can manage it. The old Vege engine and its successor (built with a £51 engine case) would rev to 5700 rpm, I have done 37 mph in second gear. Not with the newest engine..
120's a bit high IMHO. Caning it, I don't let mine go above 115 if I'm romping. It's your right foot that's the key!
Hello together, I was on the road for 14 years including Africa and Asia without an extra oil cooler - but also with damage (when pulling my trailer in the summer heat or on the highway after trips to Africa). Paying attention to the oil thermometer helps, but also make sure you take breaks and drive slowly at overheating. Next Africa trip is planned this year. Now (in preparation this month) a Mercedes W114 /8 Coupe, W111 Coupe, W113 Pagode, W115, ...) oil cooler comes behind the front axle. With sandwitch thermostat under the oil filter. The original one remains intact and in operation - so that the engine's air flow cools it even in traffic jams and when stationary. regards,
