I just noticed today when walking past the back of my van a crack in the muffler. I have taken the muffler off and cleaned the metal around the crack with a flap disc. It cleaned very easily. I think the previous owner fitted the single quiet pack exhaust shortly before I purchased the van last year because it was very clean and had a sticker on the top side of the muffler at the time. I tried typing the muffler codes into google but I can't find anything. All the single quiet packs I see for sale are either stainless or black painted non-stainless. I'm sure there is no way that mine is stainless but before I repair it with the MIG I thought I would get the opinion on here. Just surprised that it cracked (like stainless exhausts can) and surprised that it isn't more rusty.
I was just randomly typing in things and the e11 in a box marking indicates it is automotive type approved in in the UK when it was part of the EU. I am going to say that actually it could be a a fairly thick stainless steel one, because it would have been less shiny if mild steel by now, and it certainly isnt galvanized as it would have a distinct rotten area where the zinc was ground off to weld it. . The usual stainless does develop a tint, and can look slightly blue or brown . Anyway. If you want to and you are using BOC Argoshield Light you can load up your MIG welder with stainless wire and it will weld OK (as its mostly argon with some CO2 and a tiny bit of oxygen). Or you can weld it with ordinary mild steel welding wire. The replacement stainless exhausts also crack but because they are now so thin, they crack round where the exhaust pipe goes into the side of the exhaust.. I would fix yours. I welded up my stainless steel quiet pack twice then got fed up with it when suddenly I wasnt paying to put children through university. I priced up all the parts to make a silencer up with the inlet and outlet pipework and found that it was not economic. So I bought another one. However, welding stainless steel at home is always likely to produce welds that crack because of the moisture in the air getting into the weld and breaking down to leave hydrogen in the metal (probably why there is a bit of oxygen in the welding gas to pick up the hydrogen)
Judging by the rust on the tailpipe I don't see how it can be stainless. Who would manufacture a stainless box and weld a mild steel tailpipe on it? Or am I missing something? I would definitely weld the tailpipe up, preferably with a sleeve. Edit: just looked again and that's not the tail pipe that's cracked is it. Same solution though
I came up with Klarius https://www.klarius.eu/products/exhausts/ https://www.google.com/search?q=dn5...ceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#ip=1&vhid=0CL5WIztJ--DeM "Innovative features include the use of aluminised steel, which offers the strength of steel but the corrosion protection of aluminium, combine this with the use of stainless steel welding rods and you have a product that is designed for prolonged road use."
Small problem there being every maker orientates the flange the joins to the header differently and sometimes different sizes too. It's very difficult to avoid buying a header/box combo each time unless you can source an identical box... but then you find many sellers don't supply the two parts separately. So... good luck - not impossible but not easy. This one is a bit odd to start with, looks like the oval box is vertical where most are horizontal, I'd like to see how on earth it even fits on a bus.
The stainless exhausts sold by JK have mild steel flanges even if the pipe is stainless. After a while even stainless gets quite rough looking ...
After reading the replies on here I decided to weld it and see what happens. The metal was very thin around the cracked area and the only welder I have available at the moment here is a very large MIG with 1.2mm wire so I ended up blowing holes. After I patched the holes I had to grind it back and then cut the pipe to clean inside and then reweld. The exhaust is a little odd compared to most as it does seem to sit vertical. There is also no support bracket or fixing place on the oval to attach to the van and take some of the weight of the muffler. It seems to be fixed for now but I am looking at possible other stainless systems to replace it that will also be suitable for a 1776 engine which I will hopefully build at some point. I see a lot of people have fitted and recommend Vintage Speed but I am not sure how you choose which one as they do a few. Although I don't have plans to put a tow bar on at the moment, it is something I would like to be able to do in the future ideally. Any thoughts?
If you are planning on towing you want something that fits close to stock. Don’t be afraid of stock. A 1776 would work with it. Get it ceramic coated instead of the stainless. A 1 and 3/8” system is all you want. You are handy with a welder. Get a flange kit for your heater boxes and enjoy proper non smelly heat If you are staying single carb with your 1776 make sure your header has proper take off for the preheat to the carb. And that basically limits to stock or Vintage Speed
