I don't know Webcam make a wheel, AA sell them. Do they fit other cams? I'd say yes. TBH if I wanted cam, followers and wheel I'd probably buy it all from the states. Probably from aircooled.net. At least they try! Or direct from Webcam perhaps.
Mine is a 2.0 type 4 auto. I went with a standard cam & followers from VW Heritage. It pulls well with plenty of low down torque which you need with an auto. I did get a decent discount on the parts as they had a Black Friday deal on with about 20% off. Another alternative as already mentioned is a Scat C25. I did try one of these but had problems trying to get a decent idle with 34ict carbs. Coolair do the Scat cam & lube a lobe followers which you need to match the cam as it’s not a good idea to mismatch cam & follower manufacturer. However they were out of stock when I wanted one so I ordered directly from Scat in the US. The parts worked out as roughly the same as Coolair once you pay import duty. I think Jim at Stateside stocks Webcams but expect to pay a premium price.
Possibly got pushrods , I’ll check, I would check the fuel filter to start, I don’t think compressions low enough for the effects you’re getting
Coolair VW do cams ( but can have a long lead time..) and we get Latebay discount if you ask them and register for it. But I went US to get a Webcam as it worked out not too different when you get some other bits. .. but as above , might be worth checking a few out.. cant imagine a cam/lifters to loose all power on one trip?
My thoughts are similar to Davidoft ^^^ as in not just fuel filter but fuel supply. You can try the pipe and bottle trick and just check that there’s plenty of juice getting through before you go crazy with cams and followers and stuff. Pipe off of carb, shove it about an inch or two into a 1.5-2L empty water bottle on its side, get someone like a glamorous assistant to crank it and you should see it bouncing off the bottom of the bottle like a fourteen year old boy after a bad date You’ll then know if there’s enough juice getting to that point Might be an idea to disable your starting capabilities by removing your rotor arm And don’t set yourself on fire, it’s not big and it’s not clever Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,and it’s free
Right, fuel all good, spark all good, plugs look normal. I swapped out the lifters, (a job I can do in my sleep), for a set of known good ones that @Beef kindly gave me and no change. I then set set the preloads on the inlets to way over the top at 3.5 turns and it's a lot better, and quieter. It runs about the same but will now reach the dizzy speed of 45mph whereas before it'd struggle to do 30. I'm guessing the cam's worn one of the lobes and simply isn't able to open the corresponding valves enough. It's running on all 4 cylinders and removing the plug leads one at a time causes an equal drop in revs/power so very difficult to identify the offending lobe. Any more thoughts?
It sounds exactly the same as described by my mate whose Type4 hydraulic cam went soft Have you dropped the oil, yet? To see if there's cam in it? PS He didn't try your trick with the lifter pre load, but said it ran just fine, but wouldn't knock the skin off a rice pudding.
As mentioned it’s worth getting a timing light on it to check its advancing before ripping the lump out. There could be some cam in that filtered oil. I can mostly see lumps of carbon though.
The chances are the cam was worn when you changed the first set of followers and new followers on an old cam won’t last long. If it were a solid cam, I’d suggest measuring the lift at the rockers and it still might be worth doing to give an indication of whether the cam is flat or not. I’d bin the hydraulic cam but if you have an auto transmission be careful what you replace it with. You need a mild cam such as a Web 73 for a slow and smooth idle and buy cam and followers from the same manufacturer. Have you changed oil brand to one with more detergent, or just not changed it for a while?
I'll have a go at measuring the lift, that's a good idea. If I remove the rocker shaft that should eliminate any sogginess in the lifter and I can measure the pushrod travel. With oil I change it with the filter every March/April when it comes out of hibernation, as it does less than 1K per year I tend to mid range oil from a local factors.
