Engine will not start after rebuild - suspect electrickery.

DR slot meaning

 

Sorry, shove the positive connector into the DR slot accordingly. Put the connector into the relay from the side where the coloured wires come out. Keep everything plugged in and in-situ.

 

Check in this order:

1) 88d and 85 - (85 being earth) - Fuel pump
2) 88Y and 85 - Battery
3) 86A and 85 - Starter motor

Make sure ignition is on the first notch. Give us a reading with someone cranking it as well if possible.

This will tell us where the break is then we can narrow it down from there, good luck.

 

DR is dual relay leave the connector plugged in and go into the bottom of the plug

 

so just the coloured side one yes?

 

Ricky yours wont have the metal box (resistor above the double relay as yours is a later model like mine. Bell all the wires through from the ECU plug to the other ends, you can then rule out a faulty cable.

 

i would just work on the fuel pump at the moment, that is what the only real fault we have at the moment, once that is fixed then we can move on from there if it still doesnt work.

 

Yeah, but checking the DR this way will isolate where the fault is. I'm sure it will be a problem with the fuel pump but this will tell us if it's getting voltage to the DR but not on the the pump or if it's not even getting to the DR.


Rick, yes just the coloured ones

 

right @Moons will be more technical but with ignition on pos 1 or 2 the relay sends no power to the pump, pulling the connector off the relay and poking a wire in the hole that goes to the pump which then we touched to the battery made the pump run

 

am just wondering if we should have tried for pump voltage when cranking?

 

yes it has see pic? you mean test for continuity from the big plug to the litte one?

 

So sounds like your not getting voltage to the DR in the fuel side.

To get power to this side it goes ignition - starter - relay. Therefore if say check the voltage at the starter motor, make sure the connectors are on properly and then give it a try.

You can also give the relay connectors a good clean up, especially 88D and 85.

EDIT - please see my next post which supersedes this one.

 

Yes, that would be helpful, it only passes current to that side of the relay when cranking so no wonder you got no readings.

 

Okidoke - I've not read the last 9 pages as I need to walk the dog and do me ironing, so forgive me if I cover something already covered.

I went down with @rickyrooo1 to inspect the brown missile and found the following, using test light rather than multimeter:

On ignition - OFF
88y +12v constant (Rick's diagram shows battery positive)
88z +12v constant (again - shows battery positive on diagram)
85 - earth
All other pins show no voltage, did not check for earth.

On Ignition - ON
You get a loud click as the relay switches (we isolated the coloured wires one to confirm this was switching)
88y +12v constant (Rick's diagram shows battery positive)
88z +12v constant (again - shows battery positive on diagram)
88c +12v (Ricks diagram shows this as Aux Air Reg)
88 d - nothing, with ignition on and under cranking, nothing (Rick's diagram shows this as the fuel pump)
85 - earth

To test that we had connectivity between the fuel pump, we spade connected 88d wiring (plug disconnected from relay) and pulsed it for a split second, we could hear the fuel pump whirr.

So, and apologies if this is covered elsewhere - is the relay gate staged? - i.e. does it enable the Aux Air Reg but not the fuel pump due to some logic on the input side, or is it simply it latches across and Air Reg and Fuel pump are both live?

If it's the former, then I didn't have the info for the 'state' of the Cold Start, Air Flow Meter and Starter are in with ignition on....again, on diagram these seem to control the latch circuit.....e.g. does the signal from the starter stay constant 12v or only when starter is cranking?

The relay seemed to latch across, then click off only when ignition was switched off and on.

If the relay should simply enable the Air Reg and Fuel pump at the same time, then suspect its a faulty relay as we get 12v for the Air Reg.

If we'd had more time we should have primed the pump manually and swapped the Air Reg and Fuel pump over - would this have been safe?

 

I did, we had nothing.

 

Okidoke - so I think I have misread the diagram slightly (as it's a crap diagram and not my immense genius brain )

Are you saying the latch trigger for the 'coloured' relay is just the starter motor - this in turn enables the Cold Start?

Makes sense if so - so what provides the constant latch if the starter only enables on cranking?

 

Did you reconnect the wire underneath? I know you haven't had it connected before but with removing the rest of the wiring to pull the engine and also the fuel, so I reckon you should try connecting that up and the. see what you get

 

no, because as stated my old starter had 2 lucars the new one only has one, therefore to connect it i will have to get a double spade one

 

Ah sorry thought it was a ring, by lucars do you mean spade connector?