Engine running ok but................

..............Only if the timing is so advanced that it's off the scale. Anything less than 40 degrees at fast idle and it wont pick up and stalls as soon as I put it into drive (it's an auto).

I took it around the block and it drives well and doesn't seem to overheat and isn't pinking. The timing mark seems in the right place according to the measurements on Ratwell and corresponds with No.1 piston being at TDC so it's a mystery.

So far I haven't driven it further than walking distance from home but I'm plucking up the courage to go a bit further afield and see how it performs. It's got a slight hesitancy but no worse than it was before (progressive carb). Next stage is to fit the twin carbs and see if that improves things.

 

That's proper progress from where you were in June!

Wasn't the timing way out even back then, Paul?

 

It should be going backwards at idle with that timing.
Think about it - 40+ degs at idle + another 20 degs advance driving. Madness! That would be firing almost at bottom of the compression stroke, before it compressed, it wouldn't fire. You must be one lead out on the cap and actually still very retarded (not you personally )

 

You got your distributor /drive in the right way?
Turn it 180 degrees.

 

Totes agree there it’s possible to run like this. When you have it at tdc then where is the rotor arm pointing to! Have you static timed it.?

 

And are the leads the right way around

 

Will it drive to TE next week ..that is the question... Nurse it there then let the masses have their wise opinions ( while I pull up a chair and watch)

 

I don't think that would be wise.
Back on the trailer again?
There are loads of you chaps in Lincolnshire though, perhaps someone could pop round and see what's up.

 

Thanks for the advice @Zed , @Dicky @Soggz

The distributor is fitted correctly, i.e the offset keyway is in the right way around.

With No.1 and No.3 pistons at TDC the valves on No.1 are closed and the valves on No.3 are rocking, the rotor points at No.1 on the cap and the timing mark is at TDC on the pulley.

The leads on the cap are set at 1-4-3-2 clockwise.

I set the timing statically at 7.5 degrees by slowly rotating the distributor back and forth with the ignition on and checking the spark at No.1. It will almost start but won't run until I advance it right up.

 

Baffling. Needs a fresh set of eyes on it if for no other reason than to confirm how baffling that is!

 

Shouldnt the valves on 1 be rocking not 3 or am I reading it wrong ? As in play on rockers ?

 

This!!! With no 1 at tdc that’s when you would set your valves. Possibly we’re misunderstanding what your saying?? What do you mean by rocking. Frankly if I’m setting no 1 I don’t really care what no 3 is doing!

 

Good spot chaps!

 

With No.1 at TDC both valves are closed so the mixture is compressed and about to fire and the rotor points to No.1 plug lead. The valves on No.3 are rocking meaning that the exhaust is about to fully close and the inlet is about to open. Hopefully I've got it right?

 

I thought slack was only taken up when valves were open as cam rises and pushes values into head.

At TDC valves are closed and there will be play in the rockers

I’d suggest, as mentioned above you just focus on one cylinder at a time don’t worry about it’s pair. So TDC for each cylinder

 

Both valves should be closed if it's TDC at the end of the compression stroke. If it's TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke, you should be in the valve overlap zone, with the intake valve partially open and on its way to opening fully, and the exhaust valve partially open on its way to closing.

Stolen from Google....

 

Please… set your valves on no 1 at tdc and ignore the other cylinders. When at tdc on no 1 set your dissy do the rotor is pointing at the no 1 lead. Then set the rest of the cylinders valve clearances at tdc on each cylinder.

 

Sounds right.

 

As above Paul, if No 1 is at TDC on the compression stroke then both rockers on No.1 will be slack.

 

does your dizzy have a take off for retard? Not sure about auto buses as I've never had one but if they're anything like old school autos they draw vac to operate the shift. If the dizzy also requires a specific vac signal to retard the ignition at idle then your issue could lie somewhere along theses lines