Might be. Kind of safety feature they introduced when Ebers (and I assume Webastos) got a bit more brains. Obviously can't keep pumping fuel in if the heater hasn't lit. I think Ebers give you three strikes and you're out. Some of the Ebers timers can display fault codes and I believe (never used it) reset them. Needs to be done over the built-in serial comms line, so you need kit that can talk to the heater. Likely the same on Webastos. If you haven't got the kit, a dealer can reset them.
Thanks @snotty , now the decision, go to a main stealers or buy more tools The decision is obvious and entirely based on financial considerations
That’s a great tip about priming the fuel line. I’ve a feeling I’ve locked it now as I definitely tried it more than 3 times last time I got into the garage. I put the multimeter on it and the red wire is giving 12.7 but the red/green wire is only giving about 0.28
So I presume I need to get the controller connected to unlock it ? Here’s the wires coming out of it.
If it was in a T5, likely the pump was powered by Drum'n'Bass Back to first steps...how many connectors have you got coming out of the loom? The two shown in the second pic, plus the wire ends shown in the previous pic? No other wiring with just two cables for the pump?
OK. The first pic with the 9 leads are the leads coming from the Ebers. There are no other leads coming out of it anywhere. The 6 leads in the second pic are coming from the timer.
Most make sense, just the missing pump connections. Suspect this came out of a BT van (pink wire I think was used for a timer). The wires themselves look a bit odd, but it may have been a custom loom made by Ebers. The best way to check for sure is to take the cover off the side of the heater, where the loom goes into it. Under that, you should find a 14-way connector and the ring terminals for the glow plug. Pull the connector out, and note which colour wires go to which connector pins (pin numbers are moulded into the side of the connector). Then we'll know for sure. I'll post a list if I can find it. If you've been trying to run it up without it lighting, may have locked itself, but one step at a time...
Here y'go. From a B1LCC, but yours should be much the same. Important ones for getting it fired up in bold. Eberspächer B1LC Compact – Main Connector 1 black/red (fresh air blower) 2 n/c (white/red - external temp sensor if fitted) 3 green/red pump 1 4 blue/white diagnostics port 5 red main supply +ve 6 n/c 7 grey/red interior temp sensor, target temp (from pot in controller) 8 grey interior temp sensor, actual temp (from temp sensor) 9 white glow plug +ve 10 n/c 11 brown main supply 0V 12 black/white ? 13 brown/white temp sensor clean ground 14 yellow heater start Pump 2 from brown 0V Timer +ve from red main feed Timer 0V from brown main feed
Just before I do something daft and break it altogether is this the block I need to take out ? And am I pulling it up or sliding it out ? There’s a fair bit of glue there so I’m going to have to use a bit of force
That’s a kind offer Owen but I know you like to keep that candle in case we get lower than minus 5 ...
Not sure what's going on there . Maybe someone's done a custom loom for it. I'd assume (I'm guessing) one pump connection is the green/red, other pump connection ground (brown). Main supply leads you've got (thick red, brown), start signal yellow. Short the yellow to one of the red +12V leads, and the heater may try to fire up. Expected something a bit more like this...
when I short the yellow one to the red there's a click in the ecu but nothing else happens. When I take the yellow wire back off there's another click. The pump doesn't work during this, it does pump (once) when I put red on it instead of red/green but then nothing else. I'll see if I can get the timer to work, might be able to get fault codes from it.
I'm not sure the timer you bought has the ability to show fault codes. Some do, some don't. At least the heater seems to have a diag port. Worth persevering with (maybe even give a dealer a call to help), as the the D3s are nice units.
