Dizzy slipped so lost timing

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Martin Jones, Jun 7, 2020.

  1. Hi all
    Was changing the points today and managed to drop the screw under the dizzy ( I know ), slackened off the dizzy so I could lift it to retrieve the screw, pushed it back down and tightened it all up.When I went to start her up the clamp could not have been tight enough and the dizzy spun so I have lost the timing.This happened not long ago after fitting a the new dizzy but I managed to get it going but the timing was 180 out so swapped the leads.Previous fault was caused by a rubbish seal on the new dizzy so swapped to the old one and all was good.I can’t get my head round where to start to get the timing correct now
    All help appreciated
    Martin
     
  2. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Aassuming .
    The wires are still in the right place on the cap.

    If the distributor is an SVDA it should sit with the vacuum capsule should face the rear of the bus.

    For the next bit you really need a timing light but otherwise a 12 volt test light connected to thenright hand coil terminal and engine block will be needed for static timing . Turn the pulley at the back of the engine until the big notch is to the left of the engine seam and the smaller notch just to the right is pointing at the seam at the back of the engine. 7.5 degrees of rotation before the big mark reaches the seam..
    Now with the ignition switched on, turn the distributor until the test lamp is just on the point of switching off.
    Make sure the clamp is done up. You never need to really tighten it or completely loosen it ever, except changing distributor, then its best to have two clamps and change them by unbolting the clamp from the engine block.
    The light should come on as you turn the pulley to the right.

    Now try and start it. The other way is to get someone to crank or make up a remote starter wire from the tag connector on the starter, so you can touch the remote starter wire on the battery while fiddling with the distributor position and the throttle from the engine bay.

    You really should get a timing light making the adjustment a lot easier as the cost of winging it can be a new engine on your first run over 20 miles as it pings and gets hot.

    And then when you are set up at 7.5 BTDC hoses off and blocked at idle and 28 to 30 BTDC timing at high RPM, scratch the clamp and the distributor so that when the scratches line up the timing is correct. Saves a lot of time..

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Hi Mike
    Thanks for the reply is it the same principle for the type 4 engine I have
    Thanks
    Martin
     
  4. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Principle is the same , timing marks different but you use the main mark and the scale to set static timing 7.5 degrees BTDC. The distributor sits differently, the capsule is more to the side.
    Need to find a picture..
     
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Normally ends up with can pointing approx right...or towards the front of the van for the rough start point but the process is the same, marks on pulley and timing scale. Unless you have an accuspark type module, then you can't static time. Points or pertronix modlues can be static timed.
     
  6. How did people manage before t`internet ??

    Has there been a sudden shortage of Haynes manuals ??

    It`s all explained in easy text with pictures , we all have to learn somewhere but now first port of call seems to be the internet instead of trying to work through problems with a grubby Haynes* .

    (* Not the grubby E.Grinstead based chauffeur i might add... )

    :hattip:
     
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  7. CD1B988F-B57E-445D-8512-08BD2CD0DE0C.jpeg
    This might help for position
     
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  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I blame the lockdown.
     
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  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    @Lasty

    There's a dearth of fault finding and tracing causes for symptoms, what happens if you do x, y, and z a bit wrong, the common pitfalls, mistakes we've all made, it's endless.

    At best in Haynes there's a table at the end of the chapter where you find that every fault listed could cause your symptoms. :thinking:

    :hattip:
     
  10. I get the same with boiler manuals. You look up a particular fault code and it pretty much lists every single component as the possible cause, even ones that with years of experience you know dont ever cause those symptoms. Ive lost count of the amount of times ive been to a breakdown and the customer is telling me its a certain component and I know damn well it isn’t. Bloody google.

    You can’t beat an oily service manual.
     
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  11. I`m not saying Haynes* is the answer to everything , it isn`t but any info beats trying to explain - often in great detail - very basic fault finding which if the OP had done a search would provide . Fault finding and elimination is the route to having a successful outcome . This one is easy , find TDC on pot 1 and THEN set the timing but unless the OP has actually grasped the basic operation of an internal combustion engine you can be (and have been previously) pages explaining step x ...
    I don`t mind helping anyone but would prefer if they actually took a bit of time to learn the absolute basics and at least have a look at some pictures in a Haynes* .

    (* Not the well dressed E.Grinstead based chauffeur with flowing locks i might add... )

    :hattip:
     
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  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Grumpy git. :)
     
  13. I know , i know .....
    :D:D:D:D:D

    Is that better ?

    :hattip:
     
    Zed likes this.
  14. I’ll second that


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. Thanks all for your replies, didn’t mean to come across as lazy, I do understand how an engine works but today was one of those days when my brain just couldn't process the basics of timing for some reason.I probably should have shut the garage door and gone back another day with a clear head.Anyway with the information you’ve given me I’ll have a good go at it later in the week when I get a chance.
     
  16. Nothing personal @Martin Jones but a picture speaks a thousand words as someone rightly said . A manual , Haynes* or otherwise is a necessity when you're playing around with anything mechanical - it'll get you through the basics .
    There's recently been a glut of owners asking questions and getting simple answers but not understanding the answer , so they have to be walked through the answer when a simple picture or youtube clip will explain everything...
    Like I say nothing personal , and yes , I'm a grumpy git , must be the cabin fever kicking in ...
    Hats off to @zedders who has the patience of a saint

    *Not Barrington Haynes , the coolest hipster in E.Grinstead.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2020
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  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Dunno about patience but I do attempt to explain why I come to whatever conclusion rather than simply belt out instructions. It's all a learning curve and often one has to guess where someone is on that curve. It's a balance of saying enough without being insulting and being aware others also with unknown knowledge may also be reading now and in the future.
    Half the battle is guessing what the OP might not know and might have tripped over. I enjoy that when there are clues, I can still remember opening the back and thinking WTF, I can see a load of pipes, fans, wires and sheet metal but where's the engine?
     
  18. No offence taken guys really glad of the advice will let you know how I get on.Had a bad weekend with vans the cat snapped on my T4 while changing the exhaust and the new springs I had for it despite saying suitable for a caravelle made it sit up like a monster truck lol
    Things can only get better
    Martin
     
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  19. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    Haynes here if you need me, handsome with thinning hair, and a taxi driver not chauffeur:thumbsup:
     
    Lasty likes this.
  20. Big thanks to EDE 77 for his help she’s all up and running
     
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