If only there was a cheap tool that you could order that measures the case sizing for exactly this reason - https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/product/csp012140105g/ and indeed the crank https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/product/c012140105k/ Couldn't be simpler - order, wait, postie arrives and either the +0.5 fits in your case or it doesn't. No more guessing, no more confusion. 100% more accurate than dodgy micrometers.
Except it doesn't, it's for crankshafts which are easy to measure. You meant this one I'm sure. https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/product/csp012140105g/
You keep adding to the order, it's going to be a bugger when the bill arrives.... "okay, who didn't have rice?"
I did - that's why i put the link to it first out of the two! It won't impress the pro engine builders with their proper measuring tools, but it is a great tool for checking what the case is actually line/align (I'm not getting involved!) bored to. The crank is easy to measure I agree, but again only if you have the proper tools, the Chinese digital micrometer is probably not quite rigorous enough for the task, especially for measuring the absolute rather than relative size of things. On a WBX engine (which runs T4 style bearings) it was possible with only a little ingenuity to fit the bearings with the oil hole in the wrong place. Been a while since I did a T1, so not sure if that is doable on these or not. Here is one on an engine I bought - a couple of hundred miles later, zero oil pressure and this - you can see the hole where the oil was supposed to go, and where it tried to! Which led to this: On a different note to bearings, what do the pistons, rings and cylinders look like? How much metal have they ingested - or are they the source?
Strange, it took me to the crankshaft measuring tool or I wouldn't have posted as I did. Ah oops, didn't see 2 links, my bad. Those case tools are perfectly pro BTW Mr l'Orange.
Oops! I'm somewhat familiar, I had a T1 case Wasserboxer crank (76mm/2.1L) engine but it was a while ago now.
They work really well to determine what grind/cut you've had. Can shine your little torch behind them to check for egg-shaped-ness.
... which sticks out proud of the shaped backing. If you sanded that much off you'd have no bearing surface and could be described as an imbecile if you built your engine with it.
Well. After splitting the case and giving it a real thorough clean out ( thought it was already done), I’ve rebuilt it again. I noticed on the middle split bearing that I took out, it seemed a looser fit to the new one that I put back in. The new one, I had to tap in with a soft mallet to make it sit in properly, whereas the other one just sort of sat it but wouldn’t hold on its own, if you see what I mean. Also, the number stamped on it was different to the new on I fitted, so possibly smaller O/D? Don’t want to tempt fate, but the engine seems to run great. Took it out for an easy spin,and pulls well and is so much quieter than before. As it has new rings too and a re-hone, compression seems a lot better. I’ve only done about 10 miles in it, as I have been pretty busy and not had time to go out in it over the weekend. What’s peoples methods of breaking in a newly rebuilt engine? I know not to slog it up hill in 4th, or scream the nuts off of it in first. Hopefully, this engine should last me out for a few good miles, and I can turn my attention to the bodywork ( which was my plan to have a go at this year, but the engine came first, as I would rather have a rolling project). Bit concerned about the oil pressure light switch in the block, it worked and now it dosnt, or does that mean that the pressure is holding up longer than it used too? (Dosnt come on at all now. It did work…) Any advice would be good. Cheers all, for putting up with my garbled nonsense, but a couple of you on here seem a bit more patient than others.
Drive it like you stole it. Just drive normal. Don’t “lug” it. If anything, try to suck the rings. Accelerate, then back off, repeat.
We did tell you to check your bearing sizes The half-shells should be a snug press fit. Would've been better if you'd just installed the crank as a test fit, and rotated it to check for any binding. Get your meter out and check for continuity across the centre tab of the switch and the engine case. Should be a short circuit without the engine running. If it's not, the switch is duff. Pull off the pressure switch lead, turn the ignition on and short the terminal to the engine case. The oil light should come on, meaning the cable's ok.
