Dinitrol 3125, Dynax S50 or Anker wax. Lest we forget Waxoyl????

Discussion in 'Product Reviews' started by nigelcp, Nov 4, 2014.

  1. Probably the wrong time of year to be doing rust prevention but need to do something especially after hosing about 10 years of mud and kack from under the wheel arches at the weekend.

    Any opinions on Dinitrol, Dynax or Anker wax? I've sort of talked myself out of Waxoyl already unless someone can convince me. I bought some Kurust as well (I know the only real way is to cut out and replace) just to hold the worst back until the summers here again.

    I must have too much time on my hands to be messing with the font me thinks ;)
  2. Diddymen

    Diddymen Moderator

    I've used a mil spec wax from rustbuster, and bilthamber stuff

    They both seem ok, but the bilthamber seems to flow better ....the aerosols are good and come with a long probe to get into all the nooks and crannies ......seems to have good spray pattern and coverage :thumbsup:

    I dont think there is anything wrong with waxoyl, but there are better products out there IMHO

    I've heard good things about Dinitrol and Anker ...but never used them myself ....although I seem to remember someone saying Dinitrol isnt as good as it used to be?
  3. We have just finished painting the underside of our '73 with Dinitrol 447 underbody protection, covered really well too. We have yet to seal the cavities but we have got three cans of the Dinitrol ML3125 to do this with.
  4. It's a dificult thing for anyone to offer a conclusive comment on. To prove the point you'd have to experiment and wait 10 years.
    Miss Rosie, nobbly, vanorak and 2 others like this.
  5. From an application point of view, I found Dynax s50 much easier to apply than Waxoyl (which I've used in the past). As @Diddymen said it comes in handy aerosols with a great long probe making application very easy in box sections and chassis members etc.

    My wheel arches and under floor I used Hammerite underseal with Waxoyl which was in aerosol form, and easy to apply.

    I'm sure all have similar benefits but I will certainly be buying the Dynax again in three or four years time for a re-application to the inner chassis / frame.
  6. Hmm zed I see your point lol do we know of such a chap . Just trying to Guage how well they apply really. Seems part of the problem is there is to much choice.
  7. Birdy

    Birdy Not Child Friendly

    I like waxoyl. I've been talked out of using the clear stuff by friends who restore Talbots. Apparently the black is far better. Anyway I drowned my Visa in it. Rock solid when I went to sell it. Likewise the 504 was also swimming in it. The key to these (and this is where it sounds strange) is not to use it at full strength but thin it down. The thicker you apply it the more likely it is to crack when it dries and the thicker it is the less likely it is to weep between joints. Also consider it needs redoing every 4-5 years.
    Surfari and vanorak like this.
  8. Dinitrol is used by most car manufactures these days on new cars, it goes on awesome and if you buy the aerosol can you get every drop out. :)
  9. Very true but owt is better than nowt when it comes to cavitys id say

    If you can afford it dynax as it creeps better
    If your on a budget and just want to give some protection for a year or three then waxoyl cavity wax is fine
    You need to get it warm to thin it though and a compressor to inject it with

    Its more about the way you apply it and the product used
  10. I've used the Bilt Hamber Dynax and I can't comment on the rust proofing performance yet, but it did seem to flow well: it sort of fizzes and bubbles for a little while after it's put on. I used their runnier one for cavities and seams underneath, then the thicker wax all over underneath.

    I literally filled the heater channels on my beetle with Waxoyl when I finished it in 1994 and they are still good 20 years on, despite being repro panels. It did pour out onto the carpets the first time I used the heaters though, making me quite ill!

    As paradox says, I reckon how you do it matters more than the product - getting into all the box sections and covering them inside. I always spray too much in and then catch it from all the drain holes in old ice cream tubs, which you can then use to brush on. Once you have started using one of the aersosol probes, don't stop for long, as they clog up and what starts as a misting effect become blobs being spat out.
    paradox likes this.
  11. Here's an interesting article http://www.classicsmonthly.com/2012/11/05/cavity-waxes-on-test/#null although they have included some more "new" products to the ones that we've discussed. I sort of get the feeling that using cavity waxes are not a one time application and you have to "keep an eye on things". I think the next couple of weeks are gonna be spent having a good clean up a good dose of Kurust while I decide. So far apart from a little rust at the back of the arches, both arches seem not bad :thumbsup:

    dirty wheelarch.jpg clean wheelarch.jpg rust at back of wheel arch.jpg
  12. Hi,

    We provide many anti-corrosion coatings and waxes here at Bilt Hamber Laboratories.

    Last year we organised an independant test, in order to establish who made the best Wax Coating.

    The test was carried out by Hertfordshire School of Engineering and Technology.

    The aim of the test was to see how 7 metal panels faired using 7 different wax coatings in a Salt Spray Cyclic Chamber, which rapidly accelerates corrosion.

    This test was very thorough, and lasted 2000 hours.

    We were competing against big brands, including; Wax-oyl, Dinitrol, Mike Sanders and Robuster.

    Here is a picture of the salt spray chamber -

    test chamber.png

    Here is a picture of some of the panels when the wax has just been applied -

    just coated panels.png

    Here is a picture of some of the panels at 1743 hours into the 2000 hour test -

    1743 hours tested page 26.png

    The overall verdict was that Bilt-Hamber Dynax S50 outperformed all other waxes in test.

    This report is a fantastic resource to anyone that needs to know about rust prevention, and what products to get and what ones to avoid.

    Have a look at the full report here!
    paradox, millyferrara and nigelcp like this.
  13. Am I going to be the first or am I going to look a complete idiot.
  14. be the first...;)

    I like this stuff, followed by dinitrol

    best off using a parafin gun to apply it
  15. Cool Bilt Hamber has joined the forum:thumbsup:

    Ive spent a fair bit on dynax s50 recently and im impressed on how it creeps compared to waxoyl
    Any chance of a discount for late bay members?
  16. Tumble weed...
  17. I notice ditrinol is not on the second set of pictures.
  18. Sorry for late reply... the full report is here; http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/PG-BH13-001.pdf

    You can see all the panels photographed at intervals throughout the test, the test was carefully conducted with all the products applied to the correct film thicknesses – no product will work if its not on the panel – that might sound silly but a certain mag carried their test in that way. Only when we insisted that we visit to inspect the results we found the dynax S50 panel film was max about 20 microns in a few places but down to absolute zero in others. We even found one product at 10mm thick in places - a massive 10,000 microns. These fundamentally important facts were never properly published although we did ask them to. Happy to provide less 10% to any latebay member that call us.
  19. I was going to ask peoples opinion of application guns, or maybe it should be another thread?

    I wonder if anyone has ever actually gotten one of those cheap Schultz type guns to spray with a 360 fan as described possible lol

    I've had waxoyl practically boiling and thinned down with white spirit (as they advise), its not bad but not great either.

    I'm contemplating buying a proper pressure pot style gun but at £70 I'm not sure I do enough to justify it.
  20. TBH I've never used a gun but if i did and the cost was £70, and if I used it once and it saved me having to weld loads of repair panels by preventing rust I would be very happy.
    89Rallye likes this.

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