Dellorto DRLA 40 B. What jetting for a 2110cc Type 1 engine?

It’s likely the passageways inside the carb are there already. They’ve just bunged up the outside with a brass plug. Drill it out and fit a bit of brass tubing from eBay.

 

You can unscrew most of the jets from the top of the carb just by taking off the air filter.

 

Nice to see pretty spot on info from Eurocarb. Mains take with a pinch of salt, mine would run very hot with the 30 vent / 125 main combo though I know others would not - Rolling road or AFR meter time.

 

I should have looked at all this when the carbs were off last year.
Except cleaning the carbs were left alone as i didn't want to add any other points of change into the repairs

 

Yes it's possible, but the bloke who was helping me the other day mentioned he usually took the entire carb & manifold off.

 

The person who helped me last week says that eurocarb had recently been spot on with jetting info for his bus and another person with a big type one engine.

I asked eurocarb and on here so i had both opinions

 

For the distributor vacuum take off, the external bung (5 on my photo) looks like factory metal, it isn't a brass bung.

 

Madness TBH, off with the filter, unscrew the jets!

They have a bad rep (with me!) merely due to their insistence that F8/7 emulsions are good for ICTs on a bus. It annoys me because if you don't know better (and most people don't) you can spend weeks trying to get your bus driveable with no hope of ever doing so - change those emulsions - instant driveability.

Main jetting is all about power without burning pistons and the best power is just short of that so... best not to blindly follow suggestions as if you get it wrong it can be an expensive catastrophe. All the rest is safe to experiment with. That's why rolling roads only really do WOT under full load.

 

Lead... maybe - only way to know is look inside as it would have been drilled from the outside if it is drilled. If not you're right it's ali part of the casting and probably best left well alone unless you have a confident expert who's done it before on the exact same type of carb.

 

Does this zoom in help with the plug?

 

More lead plugs.
Where it say "use bottom tap" we should be able to see that one if only I could fathom where that is!

 

Looks pluggy to me.

 

Yes jets seem accessible, but would the big vent come out without having to remove the air filter base and air filter studs etc?

Good points jetting & burning pistons etc.
What does WOT mean?
When i got rolling roaded 1st time I asked for the CO% & Air Fuel Ratio to be checked at all revs, not just flat out

 

It does.

Can’t remember if you have to take the lid off the carb to pull the vents out. Possibly. Whatever, they’re just held in by a grub screw and lock nut.

Jet stacks just unscrew from above. My Nan could remove them

 

Wide open throttle

 

Top off carb - 5 screws after removing air filter, loosen locking screw to remove aux vent, pull out the main vent - again, I do that in the bus but I'm probably overlooking the fact that mine are far more accessible on my type-4. @snotty will know.

 

I envy your top hatch.

Might be poss on a type 1, but prob better to take the carb off. It can dangle from its fuel hoses.

 

No top hatch here but also no fan housing 1mm from the carbs. Both doable but I know which is easier!

 

When is your nan available?

 

Not sure if this is what you're asking, but it's the plug just above the progression blanking screw, number 4 in @paulcalf's photo. I posted some pictures a couple of years ago when I fixed the Dellorto Drip on one of the 45s on the MG. I plugged it with M4 and M5 stainless grubscrews rather than the imperial ones in that image. This is a picture from tonight

My carbs also have a vacuum takeoff on the other side of the carb, again below the butterfly but only one per body, but I'm not sure what they are for as they should give the same reading as the ones on the other side. Mind you, I've not checked that.