Runs ok on Choke, once warm and choke off, idle is erratic. eventually the engine splutters and cuts out. Other, possible unrelated : poor accelleration, also think it overchoking during warm up, can smell petrol. Engine AB code, runs well, some endfloat. SVDA distributor (new), Timed 7.5 deg, Lumention Ignition. Bosch Leads, Drives without misfires 34 PICT Empi Solex (new), set upwith CO2 meter New Silicone Manifold Boots and Port Gaskets. New fuel pump, base, pump rod, pipes and filter. Filter about 1/2 full Carb heater pipe cleared and hot to touch. Hooked up vacuum gauge holding a stable 18-20mmHg until it stumbles, then drops Tried spaying WD40 around carb base, boots, and vauum pipes. and generally wiggling the vacuum pipes to simulate fault. No change. I have two vaccum pipes attach one carb centre to distributor vacuum capsule. The other to the inlet manifold spur to the top of the airfilter box which appear to provide some resitance to vaccum. I am collecting parts for a subaru converion but would dearly like to solve this for this summer. I'm going to take out and plugs and clean once more. Any further ideas? Thanks Gary
have you got the vacuum pipe the right way round? manifold goes to air filter, carb goes to dizzy....? Also, did you check and set the float height from new? the idle jet may well be plugged.....
As Baysearcher says , lots of horror stories with empi carbs. Bought a new one for my Beetle a couple of years ago before i was aware of the problems with them, could never fine tune it. Buy a second hand solex 34 and a refurb kit.
As you look at it, the port on the left is for the distributor. Block the one facing you and connect the spur on the manifold to the top of the air filter.
As well as the vacuum takeoff from the manifold going to the air filter there should be a second pipe going from the air filter to the capsule under the air intake. There is a thermo valve in the air filter which is the two little metal tubes side by side on the cleaner. Both pipes should have a hose on them or air will leak into the exposed tube. The outlet of that valve goes on to the capsule under the air intake. The capsule operates the flap in the air intake which pops up to allow hot air to come up through a hose going through the tinware to the stovepipe piece that sucks really hot air off No.2. cylinder head. The thermo valve shuts around 30 degrees C inlet air temperature , then the flap flops down and lets in cold air, the thermostatically controlled at least 30 degrees C hot air helping to keep the fuel vapourised in the manifold. Or close off the pipe from the manifold instead of connecting it via air cleaner to the capsule and and expect cold running stumbling and lurching.
Is the power to the choke working ? Is it a new (as in new new stock) carb, They had a poor rep but the newer ones are ok. If it is an old / new stock maybe a clean out ? or return to sender !!
