Crank timed ignition: Going back in time.

Yes, the first timing wheel was definitely bad. And the bolt was originally just long enough when used with a steel crank pulley that has a boss 5mm thinner where it goes onto the crank. Adding the Ali pulley pushed it over the edge . I had to use 2mm of shims to get the timing wheel away from the boss of the stock pulley.

 

We learn from errors. I hope thrashing your out of balance engine didn't hurt your bearings though. the one at the pulley end doesn't usually see much stress.

 

It had been used to trash several alternator pullies before the timing wheel went on there, I think the wonky crank pulleys beat the timing wheel..

I hope so too..

 

@mikedjames I came across this balancer app : google Adash Balancer App, android app.
Haven't tried it but might yield with balancing the pulley. Fit a temporarily bearing in the centre and use compressed air to spin it, optical tacho to for Consistant spin.

 

Looking back - the replacement setup is still good and it has been on a few 400 mile round trips ..
The vibration of any timing wheel out of balance caused by less than a gram of weld (these timing wheels dont bother balancing the missing tooth either as sold to me) was in fact completely masked by an out of balance fan.

Which was most likely what shook the timing wheel off the back of the engine, seeing as it could also chew the boss out of an alternator pulley in 200 miles.

 

Trigger wheels.com can supply everything you will ever need . Megajolt will do your timing and microsquirt will sort everything . I’m using microsquirt and thedubshop.com type4 trigger wheel which replaced the crank 3mm spacer and locates on the dowel . I really rate the microsquirt ECU has most of the functionality of the super expensive Haltech stuff