Clutch cable replacement

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by volkswombat, Aug 16, 2015.

  1. It's all from gsf, gemo brand made in Poland. They've ordered me a free replacement to get tomorrow
     
    snotty likes this.
  2. A good way to clear crud from your cable conduit (if the rubber boots have been off for a while) is to splay the cable strands on the broken end of the cable, attach the other end to a battery drill and spin gently as you pull the cable out. Then a quick blast through with the air line.

    If the rubber boots were in place it will most probably be clean in there.
     
  3. I didn't have any rubber boots on mine . could reuse the old conduit but seems silly not to replace it while its all apart
     
  4. Pictured below are two conduits.
    The bottom one is a NOS one, the top an aftermarket.
    Although they are the same overall length notice the difference in the length of the white plastic piece. This I have found from experience leads to issues with cable adjustment on the aftermarket one. That is why I always make sure I have an NOS one in my stash of spare parts.
    Part number is 211 721 361 D. Still available from VW in Germany.
    [​IMG]
     
    yorkieman, volkswombat and snotty like this.
  5. Can I be a pedant here and point out that the whole caboodle, steel tube from the front of the van and flexi-conduit together, is a Bowden tube/cable. The conduit simply brings the "working end" of the tube up onto the engine, rather than ending on the chassis, to avoid clutch judder as the engine moves.

    Thank you for your attention. As you were.
     
  6. Sorry but no pedants allowed!
     
  7. A comma after "Sorry" would've been better...
     
    MrsVolkswombat and volkswombat like this.
  8. This one doesn't seem too bad
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Heeeellppp!!
    This the bracket that fits to pedal and holds cable.
    Should it point forwards to front of van
    [​IMG]

    Or other way round pointing to rear

    [​IMG]

    Looking from nearside to offside under van.
    Not that I can get the swine back on either way...

    .
     
  10. looking at the top picture there is a registration mark facing away from your thumb, I would say from here that should point rearwards, try fitting the clevis to the link and see if it is able to move freely, bear in mind as you push down on the pedal this link pulls the cable towards the front of the bus.
     
  11. Going by direction of movement I've done it as PIC 2.

    Next q .....


    Scrub that!
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2015
  12. [
    Phew all done! Maybe needs a minor tweak on the wing nut but drives OK.

    @pkrboo the rubber boots I got seem fine, so fitted the one on end of Bowden tube.
    Not sure they would fit on front of steel tube though so left that one off, seeing as cable was already in anyway
     
  13. Yeah just having a coffee.

    Also is it normal to have 95% of the threaded bit, through the gearbox bracket? I suppose this means as clutch wears you loosen the wing nut?

    Or is my clutch worn out!
     
  14. its fairly normal, you can put washers between the arm and the wing nut, it helps to get the tension just right

    as the clutch wears you would tighten the nut not loosen
     
    volkswombat likes this.
  15. [​IMG]

    Good tight fit, stretched over Bowden with no sign of split/tear, seems ok
     

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