Probably a stupid question but yesterday and I adjusted the valves, did an oil and filter change and replaced missing bits of the fuel breathing system which I have now fed to the right side carb air filter. Also noticed the left carbs throttle return spring had come off so re attached. Bus is fine but now the idle speed is higher like having the choke on. Any ideas please? 1700 t4 motor.
I checked those and they are ok. The carbs look new ish but I'm not convinced that the chokes have worked since I've owned it as I normally have to keep the revs steady for a minute or to when starting from cold. I had to do this initially yesterday but the revs picked up and stayed up. Have checked all the carb linkage, throttle cable etc and nothing is getting snagged up.
There is a little eyelet attached to the tin for the spring on both sides, left side spring had bent and become unattached. I have reattached so it now mirrors the right.
Just in case..you might know this but.. starting procedure from cold..foot down slowly once and off.. turn key. This lets the cold bimetalic spring in the auto choke close the flap inside. Engine should be quite quick here.. if chokes are working the disc where the wire is connectsed to should get warm and spring slowly unwinds as it gets hot opening the flap. There are a number of steps on the cam inside there. The first one it comes off nearly straight away.. next touch of accelerator on ours.. then a couple of other steps down over a few minutes You should see this on the accelerator stop being a long way off touching at full choke to right up to the plate it touches when it's off fully. If your engine doesn't rev quite a bit from cold the choke is not working properly Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
It's probably that bitch Carol Baskin.. Did you have to remove the linkage when fitting the breather? And what carbs are they? A pic or two of your setup May help us diagnose.
Assuming you're running engine from cold in neutral and the choke is working, once the revs built up you need to blip the throttle to release the mech and lower the revs. In normal driving this just happens.
I'll have a look later guys and take a couple of pics to post up. Thanks for the help and suggestions so far.
Yes if you had either massive rocker clearances or none, you either starve the engine of air flow and adjust the timing of the compression in the engine( massive gap) , or you start leaking it out as it warms up ( no gap) Setting that right the engine will run properly on all four cylinders. It only needs 3 cylinders to idle fairly well and two to struggle with.. So it will idle faster and smoother if it was badly off to start with. Dont forget to adjust the warm idle back to 850 rpm before finally setting the timing. It may be an iteration of ..a bit more or less carburettor idle air, alter timing with hoses off, tweak idle and so on .. but get the speed down or it will use centrifugal timing advance and the cold idle speed can collapse to nothing when its cold if you set timing with idle speed above about 1000 rpm when its hot.
