Hi, I'm new to the site and have a query about camping electrics. Having been spoilt by a T25 with a Zig unit, I'm looking to improve the set up on my 79 Devon Moonraker. At present, when I'm on-site camping with hook-up, all that happens is the 3pin household sockets can be used. What I need/want is for the hook-up to in some way power the radio, lights and fridge so that the leisure battery doesn't die. I believe one option is to buy a charger (c.£60) and have it wired so that it is powered by the hook-up and the charger then tops up the leisure battery? Any advice much appreciated. Cheers guys and girls Gary PS - I have a consumer unit with 3 switches, new fridge and it is electric only, 2 small (but powerful) LED lights in the rear plus a USB socket all recently re-wired/installed by company (but not in anyway powered when on hook-up).
@matty ! matty has written some really good guides for this with advice that complies to current leisure electric regulations. The serious stuff includes not killing yourself of your family by using correct gauge wiring and double pole breakers in the consumer unit. Essentially you're correct about a DC charger running off AC to keep the DC system tickety boo, but it is essential to get the AC system correctly specified first with the correct breakers in the consumer unit.
Hi Gary there lots of answers probably. I had similar to you. I got a local electrician to put me a hook up socket on, wired to a consumer unit , powered the fridge , some sockets and USB sockets and a split charger onto the starter battery and leisure battery to keep them both topped up.
Hi welcome to the site. You have answered. Your own question. Leisure battery run all 12v stuff like radio, lights etc via a fuse board. Then something like a ctek charger topping up the leisure battery whilst you are on hook up.
As you say lots of answers, maybe, but only one safe way to do it to be compliant and safe & that depends on exactly what Gary has appliance wise & what he needs the 'lectrics to do! In your answer it 'may' be read that the fridge was wired to the consumer unit. OK if it's a 2 way AC/DC fridge, but disastrous if it's a 12v only unit. You're right to advise getting pro advice , but not all the pro's are conversant in the leisure side of the current regs. I'd only be inclined to take advice from the qualified 17th Edition sparks on here such as matty & @Dicky etc
Is it a three fridge ? I swapped my 2 we from my 79 moo raker to a three way, one option I guess would be to put a consumer unit in and have the 2 way running off a 12v socket.
so long as the wire gauge & length can handle the DC volt drop without self combusting & the socket is rated above the standard carp to a heavy duty DIN type one of 10 amps plus. It's a mine field Congi & one that's easy to get a bit wrong lol
Is your fridge 12V only? What type of fridge is it (compressor, absorption, or Peltier)? If the fridge is 12V only, look up the specs and find its current draw in amps (and "duty cycle", for a compressor). Add that to all the other leisure electrics you're likely to use to get a baseline for the capacity of charger/supply you'll need. Something like the Ctek MSX10 (which can charge/supply 10 Amps) might be suitable.
One and all. Thank you so much for all responses - many more than I'd imagined. Looks like I've joined a likeminded group of dubbers. As one response noted, I have in deed answered my own question. But as others have noted, for what appears to be a simple task having a charger installed, my concern was the devil in the detail; correct wiring/capabilities etc. But, it seems the consensus is that a charger is the way to go, so i'll speak to qualified auto electricians and go from there. PS - I'll create another thread asking advice as to why my van is back firing/popping Cheers all
I have a Ctek MXS 7.0 and in supply mode it's perfectly happy with my Waeco fridge (which has a fairly low draw) as well as lighting and 12v sockets. Radio is on the van battery because we only ever use it on the move.
