Calling all Narrowboat owners past and present!

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Merlin Cat, Jul 22, 2022.

  1. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Have any of you taken your windows out before? Some of mine are a bit leaky so I want to take them out to reseal but am a bit nervous!

    on YouTube it looks easy but the boat moored near me has a plywood ‘window’ at present where his apparently broke on removal :eek:

    Is YouTube lulling me into a false sense of security? Any tips on what to do- or not to do please?. :)
     
  2. Meltman

    Meltman Sprout Lover

    I've taken a couple of the brass porthole windows out of our trip boat to reseal them but they are quite small and rigid compared to your larger windows I guess. I found they were still sealed in places and not others and had to get a thin blade/spatula in between the frame and cabin side and work it all way round to break the seal. It will be important to be very careful not to bend the frame and glass by pulling/levering the frame from one side or corner or you may be shopping for some plywood. Good luck.
     
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  3. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Cheers @Meltman

    mine have been riveted in and the frames painted over to help matters :rolleyes:

    I think my boat sides are a bit wobbly as it is so I need no more bent frame sitting off them!

    so did you have to break an external, and an internal seal to remove them please? I know from trying to remove shower cubicles and toilets how super strong silicon is unless you can split it :eek:

    I will invest in some thick rubble sacks prior to starting work just in case, I think I’ve got some plywood in my garage if disaster strikes.
     
  4. Dub and Dubber

    Dub and Dubber Supporter

    :TTIWWP:

    Are they push-in with an outside lip?

    Do you know what type of seal has been used before?

    If there's any silicone in there you could work in some "silicone eater" and tape over to give it time to work in.

    (No narrow boats were owned in the making of this post)

    EDIT ... just now seen your silicone reference
     
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  5. Meltman

    Meltman Sprout Lover

    The porthole frames are quite thick brass and were fastened to the cabin sides with 6 brass countersunk head bolts. I removed the wooden decorative inner frame first to get to the nuts on the bolts. A couple of the bolts sheared off and I had to drill them out from the outside and a couple had no nuts on....from new by the boat builder! Yes silicon can be tough but take your time and work round the frame. Don't think about pulling or leavering until you are satisfied the frame is loose. I guess you are going to have to grind or drill the rivets out. I found that on one frame the glass was leaking in the frame and not the frame to cabin side. I carefully removed the glass, cleaned it and frame and resealed. All good now.

    I think I resealed with silicon called CT1 if I remember correctly, sticks like Marmite to a blanket.
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2022
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  6. Dub and Dubber

    Dub and Dubber Supporter

    :confused:
    How do you know?
     
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  7. How hard can it be....:p
     
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  8. Meltman

    Meltman Sprout Lover

    I haven't done a comparison test....but was told so by an informed diy'er who I suspect has more experience than me :eek::eek::eek:
     
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  9. Dub and Dubber

    Dub and Dubber Supporter

    I do enjoy advertising/listing mistakes like this one ......
    that conjour up all manner of :confused:
    Screenshot_20220722-115327.png
     
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  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Post a photo of these rivets. I've never seen them riveted before. Usually it's self tappers but there's no single method.
    Mine were a PITA to remove as someone cheaped out with steel self tappers which had rusted instead of stainless steel ones. It took the best part of a day to get each one out as I had to nibble the heads off with a die grinder in the channel without wrecking the ali frame too much. they were through clearance holes into wood behind so even after the windows were out I couldn't remove the remains. I had to drill and countersink a new set of holes, again without wrecking the ali frame.
    IMG_20191002_155325474.jpg

    To refit you'll need some closed cell foam tape. Yours is old enough that mastic bedding compound (google it) may have been used between frame and hull but I'd use tape to refit them. I painted mine before refitting as the anodising had weathered beyond redemption.
    IMG_20191003_092923618 small.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2022
  11. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    After you drill the rivets out you'll need a flexible putty knife/scraper to patiently hammer in right round the window to break the seal.
    When the window is off you'll then need to either drill out of punch through the rest of the rivets so you might need to get at the insides of the fixings too (you probably will). It's a job that should be straightforward but of course....
    Day before yesterday I removed 3 portholes. 6 brass M6 screws each. 6 just unscrewed, the rest sheared off/ heads fell apart/heads already missing. Some of those I managed to unscrew from the inside with molegrips but about 8 had to be drilled mostly then the remains picked out of the threads then re-tapped. It took all afternoon. When I did the other side of the boat a couple of years ago they all just unscrewed!
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2022
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  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    If I've put you off, try digging out a mm or 2 of the existing sealant (whatever it is), clean it all and reseal around the edge with a bead of black silicon. Of course if you have rust creeping out of the join that won't work, or at least not for long. :(
     
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  13. Soggz

    Soggz Supporter

    Not a narrow boat owner, but I helped put my mates in, who had a boat built. The fixing were a type of brass screw through one frame, into a into a captive nut in the other.
    Beware though, as they can be a male and female fitting, so the thread isn’t captive.
    We used a rubber seal and plenty of mastic type gunk. Not sure what it was, but it was ‘boat’ specific . Some of the older seals were made from leather and were tightened/ loosened depending on weather, apparently. But I think it’s quite rare now.
     
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  14. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Thanks for responses. I don’t think I’ve got a photo of the rivets @Zed but it’s defo not screws. The bummer is going to be that the frames are also painted over.

    I was hoping to do some external painting next week but when I popped down to the boat last night some of the internal panelling had dropped down. It’s near where the wood is water stained by water ingress so I think my leaking windows may take precedence. I can’t often see much water unless it’s caning down but think it’s probably dripping down behind the panelling and rusting the boat from within!

    @Meltman I think I may have some CT1 in my van. It didn’t succeed in the job I bought it for, but it was a long shot. I’ve also forgotten what it was now!

    1654CC9E-7C19-4C56-BF53-4AF4B6632AF6.jpeg
     
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  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Nothing is ever as straightforward as it should be on a narrowboat!
    Looks like some nails have rusted through from your leaky window, at least it's just the bottom one. :)
     
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  16. Meltman

    Meltman Sprout Lover

    We had something similar, water getting into the inside and soaking the spray foam insulation and wetting the ply lining and causing paint to bubble. Caught it just in time to stop any major damage. As I said, one of the leaks was between glass and frame so resealing the frame to cabin side didn't fix it but resealing the glass to frame did.
     
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  17. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    I did prod at the rubber window seals last night and they felt a bit rigid. I seem to recall my Alfa sunshine roof (as my dad called them :) ) was leaking so I took the glass out and I think cleaned the seals with hot water and washing up liquid? Whatever it was it did the trick.

    I’ve also got some of Cat Tolleys creeping crack fix but no joy.

    Hopefully it is just rusted nails @Zed I hadn’t thought of that. I’m going to cut through the board in the hope I can remove it and feel/see behind the window frame.

    Though the stain on the panelling below and right to the joint is between windows :rolleyes: I think it was the roof mushroom that end that I removed before and resiliconed - just in case - and easier than window out option.
     
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  18. On the yachts we use Butyl tape to seal between frames and hull, alternatively people do use Sikaflex 291i but that is an issue as it pulls the gelcoat off.

    @Zed what did you paint over the anodising with, that looks like a nice job and I need to do similar on one of my yacht window frames.

    There are a number of boat window firms around these include Houdini marine windows, Eagle boat windows and sea glaze, (probably others too) most have how to info sheets on their websites.

    Good luck
     
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  19. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    I would go for something like butyl tape or other non ssetting sealant. As if you use Sikaflex 291 or something like that.
    Once it has set and rust / damp gets behind it.. it falls off, just like anything else..
    Once it has set and its still on good metal or glass .. it wont ever come off without cutting through it. On the way bits of aluminium may get bent, glass broken.

    If its got significant rust behind the sealant now, it will just get worse. And rust is able to lever apart inch thick steel plates ...

    The screws could be the captive type where outside screw is a hollow tube, inside the boat is a machine screw.

    Though if its a canal boat, it could be done using anything...
     
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  20. I cant help, although I did fit the windows in a Junkers ju52 once. Anyway is this what life on the canal is like.
     
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