http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/the3crispies/media/20150806_211927_zpsxo8rijrv.jpg.html http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/the3crispies/media/20150806_212043_zpszxqmmlm0.jpg.html Having issues new cable keeps stretching, fitted new shroud roller, straightened conduit. Pedal is hard to push down (by PO welded pipe) but cant see why. Havent taken existing linkage on cab floor to pieces but with that disconnected still resistance on cable. I have removed return spring from engine bay lid to linkage which helped. The ict linkage is all a year old any ideas please. :dog: sorry about pictures will upload better in daylight
If the cable is actually stretching then you are applying a lot of force to it, or pulling it with a small radius over a knife-edge so all the force is on the outer strand, which stretches, putting strain on the next shortest strand and so on, I just googled 2mm steel stranded wire and it comes up with a breaking strain of 250kg and a SWL of 55kg. So it is unlikely that your linkage is solid enough that you can get over 200kg of tension on the cable and not damage the carburettors by just pulling . So the question is - if you pull the newish cable out does it look abraded at some point along its length? This will be where it is rubbing. Match the distance with the throttle cable tube and you may well find the cable tube outer is snapped and the two ends of the steel tube do not line up somewhere. I have this about 6 inches back from the bulkhead at the back of the pedal box under the cab. So it is obvious to see. The tube is snapped probably collision damage. If you cannot line it up or find the rough spot , you could always fit a length of bowden cable all the way from the front to the engine bay and bypass the throttle tube.
cheers, had whole tube out from under van on patio, straightened and greased it looks fine I think its the Ict linkage for some reason or another or that crappy bit in cab
Stripped out linkage and floor hasnt correct recess looks like poor repair. Ict linkage seems hard to rotate. All else free and correct.
through But cable easy to move through linkage-conduit-roller it seems Ict linkage has resistance me and @zed when setting it up reversed one of the return springs on carbs as it was not closing properly but cant see what else is different Maybe cable as I replaced that but never known new cable to stretch.
If there is a lot of friction or spring load , it could be that the roller you have on the tinware is too small diameter, and also that the cable may develop a kink here which means it tries to jump off the roller - have a good look and see if the cable can jump down the side of the roller . And if this is the case then maybe a different linkage where the cable runs horizontally to the lever may turn out to be a good purchase, or using a bit of bowden tube to make the curve up towards the lever might work. I have also noticed that one throttle cable I had before was 19 strand wire, and the latest one is only 7 strand wire and was too long. The 19 strand wire was more flexible, it is just as well my current homebrew linkage has a straight cable run - the old cable used to simply saw its way through the stock throttle tube on its way up to the progressive, rather like your pictures.
Think its spring load i was thinking as it has no propper pedal so no return spring . So 2 springs at base of carbs are returning pedal to upright position. Would fink this would make it easier not harder though. Defo no rubbing/roller jumping issue am going to remove carb linkage so have everything up to carbs to eliminate this. Wont be tomorro as away in it. Asked eurocarb about springs and may order new incase they not oem.
You mean the once there is tension on the cable it goes stiff? That isn't neccessarily the carbs or linkage, try the big spring on the cable, but not connected to the linkage and see if it still goes stiff. It could be that as tension on the cable moves it to the inside of any bends, at one of these it's sawing through the metal and gets stuck in the slot it's already sawn...
Ok removed extra spring been to east coast still same didnt we bend 1 spring 90 deg extra when balancing carbs. Fitted cablre when pipe out of van only other thing is flexi is original. U dont fink bar where pedal is aggrevates
would replacing and removing old conduit work with ordinary accelerator cable (Teflon lined)fixed all the way up to fan housing throttle tube work as there is probably something "sawing" which I cant see.
Unlike the clutch conduit, the acc cable one is just a guide/route for the cable so yes. But why not find out what the problem is before you decide how you'll fix it? While I've offered a few suggestions of what to look for, I'm not neccessarily right. You can actually look/ experiment with the pedal etc and see what the problem really is. Once you know that fixing it will be easy.
