The passenger cab door has always been difficult to close due to the seal at the lower front edge being too tight...as you release the handle button, the door springs open. Removing seal and it shuts fine, so needs some adjustment to push door bottom out. Supported door on jack/wooden block but can only get a very small amount of movement on lower hinge. Does the photo show maximum adjustment or do I need to get braver and more brutal. Sent from my SM-J330FN using Tapatalk
Don't know if this applies to you but I've got best quality grey seals on and it still wouldn't shut straight. Everybody had told me they take time to bed in but it didn't seem to be happening for me. Then I went to Techenders last year and it was pointed out that there are two levels of closure. With a bit more welly, the door shuts quite level as it engages on a different catch (I've so far not got to study this and found out why). Now a year on the seal does indeed seem to have bedded in so I get nice straight door shuts.
It's a grey seal, been on 10 years. Door fully locks, but you can feel the seal in the bottom corner, nearest the hinge, springing the door open. I'm just unsure how much movement there is on the hinges to move the door out in the frame a bit at the bottom.
Mine is the same (probably worse overall). Springs open from the front of the seal. I considered trimming it. The doors were proud when I bought it. The PO said to change for the better grey seals and it would be fine. It wasn’t, and isn’t 3yrs on. I had a go at adjusting the doors but it’s pretty hard (heavy unwieldy things) on your own. I think I decided I needed some shims behind the brackets to get it set properly. There was quite a bit of movement. Best of luck. I’ll try again next year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had mine supported on jack, wondering if this prevented outward movement. Suppose in a nutshell, my question is, have I reached the limit of adjustment in the photo?
Difficult to tell really , but there's not much adjustment - a few millimetres ... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Bugger....nice fit without seal, was intending to get a new one, so cut seal up to " experiment " shuts fine with seal, minus bottom corner at hinge...may end up butchering seal as I can't see how a new one will be any better
Much will depend on whether your bus has had repairs affecting the door shut (wheel arch, A & B posts, clip etc.) and how well these were carried out. Some bodyshops will actually 'stretch' the doors to achieve a proper fit. If you fit the door without the seal so that the shut lines are acceptable all round, the swage lines are aligned and the door sits very slightly in from the B post (no more than 2mm or so, achieved with the striker plate) a decent quality 'grey' seal will eventually conform. The striker plate angle will also determine whether the door springs open, or drops slightly when opened, as will any hinge pin wear. There's not much adjustment at the hinge itself, but this translates into 4 or 5cm by the time you arrive at the B post. You can try shimming the hinges with washers, (either top, bottom or both) for a greater range of adjustment. It's one of those jobs that can take 5 minutes or 5 hours. Use the original hinge bolts; aftermarket countersunk have a different profile
As far as I know the front panel and wheelarch are original. With the strikerplate as far back as I can make it go, the door is flush perhaps slightly proud, that's why I thought that the leading edge of the door and the bottom in particular, needed to come out a bit.
My passenger door has the opposite of stretch - the "restorers" battered away at the inside of the new (in 2010 still available from JK) door to get it to curve to meet the aftermarket but good quality wheel arch that they fitted. And it still doesnt fit properly, as the door is pushed away by the hard rubber piece on the step, rather than by the seal. The double latch is a safety feature, it prevents the door coming open if the user fails to shut the door completely, or if the first latch fails. The slider lock is the same at the back , double latch there too.
if there's an adequate the gap between the front clip and leading edge of the door when the door swings fully open, then shimming the hinge (s) may be just enough to tilt the door so that it fits better. It seems to change the angle as much as the shut spacing around the aperture. Definitely worth a try while you're there. I bought new VW Brasil doors and decent Schofield arches. I also used Nos Seals. I still ended up having to shim the hinges and mess about with the striker plates to get the doors to fit reasonably well all round. You only have to jack up an apparently sound bus at one corner to see how much they flex, so to an extent, a 'decent' fit may be as good as it gets, unless you're aiming for a show winner. A good restoration bodyshop would be able to sort it out but it may involve more surgery than you're willing to undergo. There are all sorts of minor niggles with my van but I've learned to live with them now.
