It doesn't really matter just set them correctly then you can tick that one off the list. Do it yourself so you know it's done right. Watch Jokers video on it. It is very simple really.
both would cause problems, that's why they are set to a specific gap, i suggest you do as instructed and work through in order the solutions listed above, start with the valves, you tube shows you how if you're stuck or google, @Joker on here did a good how to.
Ok Done all the checks and I suspect that the choke is sticking on,when the bus starts up the engine is running fast ( choke on) but when it is warm and I dip the accelerator it doesn't turn the choke off as it once did, can anyone explain in simple terms how I check or repair this pleeez
I would be surprised if it was both of them if you check the chokes as described above you should see which one it is and replace whatever is not working. Probably the choke module on one carb.
Might just need rotating, take the air filter pipes off and see if both butterflies open at the same time as it warms up, if ones slower than the other loosen the three screws and rotate till they match, if one stays shut replace it.
I have had a problem with the rivet from the 12 volt power tag to the heater resistor wire in a choke heater module. It was loose and the tag wobbled a bit. I was able to use a centre punch on the rivet with the other end of the rivet sitting on a metal bar. This tightened the rivet the tag stopped wobbling and the choke started turning off again.
In a nutshell: Too tight and the valves will open too early....advanced timing....pinking and overheating (=dead engine!) Too loose and the valves will not open sufficiently....retarded timing...hard starting, poor running and power loss both conditions will lead to the untimely demise of your engine if left unchecked Re the chokes: tap them hard with a screwdriver handle before trying anything else....you may just cure it
